The 'E' Type Forum

Hi,
My ex.US 2+2 was converted to right hand drive by utilising a "quick rack" steering rack purchased through Hutson's, which I believe they purchased from SNG Barratt. It has 2.5 turns from lock to lock and is fitted with an 8 tooth, rather than the standard 9 tooth pinion.
I have now found that the car is very difficult to hold in a straight line, particularly at speed, and I have been told that this is because the tracking may need adjusting.
My local garage has been unable to undertake this check as the car is not suitable for modern tracking equipment. Apparently the system required relies on Dunlop gauges.
Is this correct, and if so does anyone know whether there is a garage, preferably local to Cambridge, who could undertake this check? The castor angles have already been set at 2 degrees but the camber would require checking as well. Thanks.

Too much technology!! The old system was for the toe-in to be measured by dropping plumb lines from the centres( fore and aft) of each front tyre, chalking the contact point on the ground, and then taking the measurements between each point so as to show toe-in or toe-out . Or there are devices such as Trakrite ( I think that's the name) which IIRC is made by Gunson which you drive over on a level surface which then shows the angle involved . I have one, and it works quite well and accurately in my experience, for about £50

Link here : https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DCh ... EGA&adurl=

You need to find another shop. There is nothing special required to check front end alignment on the E type, and basic tracking can easily be done at home with simple tracking tools (Google 'toe alignment gauge'). It's true the 'laser' equipment in some shops may foul the wheel arches when mounted to the wheels, but that is typically only at the rear. I'd say your chosen shop just didn't want to do it.

I would also suggest you look at increasing the caster to something like 3-4 degrees if you have power steering. Straight line stability is much improved, with the benefit of increased negative camber gain on the outside wheel in turns.

Some/many modern alignment machines relay on entering make and model and the data for older classic cars is probably not included.

I use the Gunson Trackrite to check wheel alignment on my vehicles at home.
It will have paid for itself after you have used it a few times and the E type steers superbly after being tracked on this simple device.

String, plumb bob, spirit level. I don’t need lasers or computers. Adjustments are to within a range, which are quite broad. But firstly, get the car on a level surface with the suspension settled. Dead level, fore and aft, left and right. Then measure. Twice. Resetting the car in between. Then adjust and measure again. Twice, resetting……… blah blah.

But before all that, I check that my old wire wheels are still running true. No point in adjusting the suspension to compensate for an out of true wheel. And yes, I have found one wheel slightly out, just once.

Thanks for all your replies.......most useful.
I've been told that the modern laser tracking equipment fouls the front wheel arches as well as the rear!
My car originally had power steering fitted but now it doesn't. Wheels are standard bolt-on steel, rather than wires, with 205 wide tyres.

This may help

http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=14168