The 'E' Type Forum

IMHO,
I have run the Hayden adjustable switch for 30 years in my DRIVER E Types….
But with this 4.2 series 1 and the small bonnet opening
Most people have 2 options
Over heat with the original set up or hot and start warping things or
Run a toggle and most guys run the fan to death.
The Hayden with a adjustment gives you the best shot for a DRIVER.
Again I was close BUT at a light after complete at temp
I would get the almost hot rattle around as the temp would climb fast at stop
So I put a test light jumper from the fan to a test bulb
I dialed the fan that once the car came to a stop and 10 seconds it would come on!
Then once moving and the heat surge about 30?seconds the light would go out!
Perfect!
Before I pulled the Denis Jenkins never on fan until HOT
But with this relay, no juice from the dash like my Halo lights
Everything runs real cool and
NO more marble rattle even at the light
These motors are so sensitive to heat
Look below
Simple stuff but it works
Ps dont trust the gauge or repro they are off 10 to20 degrees!
Gtjoey1314




My gauge is dead on 0 of the 70 a hair to the right in the 0

Does it work any differently to a capillary thermostat and a relay? this also allows for setting a precise temperature to switch on the fan. The only advantage I can see here is that the fan supply avoids the dash if I am right.

Yes your correct.
The Hayden relay switch has been around 35 years?
It’s the same concept as the Halogen headlight rekk look at set up
Key on for Hot to relay, not to fans
Then battery direct hot to relay
Relay to fan
The load is at the relay with an in-line fuse and the Bosch style relay also
That switch also has the A/C bypass feed
So once the A /C is on the fan goes on automatically as well
The adjustable settings is great
Gtjoey13-4

So the sensor just sits in the veins of the radiator and not actually in the coolant......Steve

Where the capillary sensor is actually immersed into the top radiator hose.

The otter switch is normally sat at the top of the header tank which is say half full of coolant so that is not I touch with coolant either. On the upgraded aluminum ones the otter switch is on the side around the lower half of the tank so that makes more sense.

The sensor for the Hayden wedges between the fins
Gtjoey1314

DWW wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 17, 2022 4:41 pm

The otter switch is normally sat at the top of the header tank

Mines at the front and low down so always in water. I never realised the blank plate was there until I investigated doing away with Kenlowe thermostat globe in the top hose that always leaked. Suitably replaced with Fosseway otter switch.