The 'E' Type Forum

Morning,

I had the coolant pump belt come off my S1 fhc yesterday, I suddenly noticed the coolant temp at max, so pulled over at the first safe spot and found coolant pouring from the coolant overflow pipe (so it hopefully hadn't been overheating that long or all the coolant would already have gone). I found the alternator/water pump belt coiled up around the alternator, in once piece but one portion stripped of the inner W belt profile. I bought the car last year and hadn't replaced the belt, I'd only inspected it visually, but the alternator and water pump both spin freely, so I suspect it was just needing replacement and I hadn't seen the signs. Recovered the car fine but very disappointed and now quite concerned about the state of the engine.

The oil pressure seems normal, there is no sign of mayo on the dipstick of the oil cap, nor anything in the coolant tank. There is however some abnormal signs of oil from the cam covers. Spattering of oil onto the brake servo pipes on the left, plus a little bit of oil below the cam covers on the inlet manifold. What are your thoughts on this? Excess oil pressure has pushed that oil out of the cam covers, what other likely issues arising?

cheers
Piers

First check would be the engine breather ..a round fitting on the front of the head....there is a mesh filter in there and check the attached hoses. ......clean everything up then start up and look for where the oil is leaking.....could easily be the cam cover gaskets or very common the cam oil feed pipes at the rear of the head.....Steve

I would naturally replace the belt and replenish the cooling system then wipe the splatters of oil and start the engine looking out for no further overheating etc'. If the cam covers remain dry, I would't worry too much as it is possible that the high temp just caused the oil to be thinner or some expansion thus oil coming out. If the opposite is true and the cam cover seal has broken down then it will obviously need replacing.

Yes, I've ordered the replacement belt (plus spare!) and will clean up well and check the breathers before I restart and will look for oil thereafter.

If it still leaks from the cam covers you'd just replace the seals? As long as there are no other signs of head gasket issues, dont worry about it too much?

Thanks both.

Spilt or spat out coolant will leave a greasy residue. Propylene (and Ethylene) Glycol is derived from oil.

I had a bad fan belt recently, purchased from one of the usuals. It had a larger profile than normal and didn't sit fully in the pulleys. I imagine that the heat stress caused by only part of the belt being in the pulley was enough for it to begin to delaminate. I first noticed something wrong when a single wire filament bacane exposed and fractured, causing a engine speed ticking noise as it hit parts of the engine frames.

The replacement belt ( I always carry a spare and the tools required for its fitment) sits fully in all three pulleys.

I currently have an annoying radiator leak. One of the spotwelds is weaping very occasionally and very slightly. It leaves the odd oily spot when it leaks.

chrisfell wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 09, 2023 8:32 am

Spilt or spat out coolant will leave a greasy residue. Propylene (and Ethylene) Glycol is derived from oil.

I had a bad fan belt recently, purchased from one of the usuals.

Thanks Chris. The oil was definitely oil around the cam covers - looked, smelt and felt like oil. Which company was the belt from so I can avoid please?

I can't honestly say where the bad belt came from. I can say that if it had been from Barratts Julian would have been on the case immediately. I've used all the usuals, Barratts, Manners, Robeys, SCParts. I've have good parts and bad parts from each and every one. Sometimes, eg oil pressure senders, there is no quality available anywhere in the market. Other times a supplier will go above and beyond to ensure the quality of their products, as mentioned already.

I'd agree with all of that Chris. It's very variable.

It is well worth a few minutes to check that all the pulleys are in-line, people change dynamos/alternators, water pumps/pulleys and belt tensioners and often finish with them out of alignment. This puts extra strain on the drive belt which fails early.

Thanks Jack, I'll do that when the belt gets here.
cheers

"It is well worth a few minutes to check that all the pulleys are in-line, people change dynamos/alternators, water pumps/pulleys and belt tensioners and often finish with them out of alignment. This puts extra strain on the drive belt which fails early."

Ask me how do I know......

chrisfell wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 09, 2023 8:32 am

The replacement belt ( I always carry a spare and the tools required for its fitment) sits fully in all three pulleys.

Chris, what other spares do you tend to carry? Along with the tool kit I carry a spare coil, spare spark plugs, spare fuses, now a spare belt as well. Is there anything else you'd recommend? I'm on an electronic distributor so no need for anything dissy related...

cheers
Piers

"Chris, what other spares do you tend to carry?"



This useful little storage box was cobbled up from 6mm MDF and covered with vinyl etc from Woolies.


Inside are a tool box, disposable gloves and paper towels, can of WD40, two warning triangles, plus:
Coil
Plugs
HT leads
Dizzie cap and rotor arm (123)
Lucas rotor arm.
Bulbs.
Hoses and clamps.

In the spare wheel well:
Spare wheel and tyre.
Another inner tube.
Tyre irons.
Electric jack
Scissor jack
Two hardwood pads, for the jack on soft ground.
Tow rope
Jump leads
2l bottle of engine oil
1l bottle of brake/clutch fluid.

When I'm touring I'll add electrical bits too, wire terminals pliers/crimpers, and a few other Spares like a fuel pump, and a brake warning light switch.

The only times I've known any engines to need emergency engine oil, the need has been for gallons not 2 litres. 1st was an early V12 which had a broken pressure warning light switch, the 2nd was a XK 150 whose oil bypass hoses had perished. Both engines emptied their sumps surprisingly quickly. My own need is only when I go on long trips. 1 litre gets used in 1000 miles, mostly dripping rather than burning.

I carry a spare Lucas rotor arm and a selection of hoses more to help other owners than myself.

Thanks Chris, that's added some useful items to my list!

I had a small leak in my rad repaired using resin by a specialist called Kempston Radiators in Bedford. One hot, fast trip to Le Mans Classic later and still holding up well. Circa £110 if I recall correctly.

I'm just near Bedford Phil. Are you local too? I know Kempston Radiators.

You don't have to quote everything when you reply it just uses up valuable server space...thanks..Steve

Understood. Is there any guidance on the forum about how to partially quote?

No guidance notes...just click post reply and start typing...copy and past if needed and..just edit as needed....iv been on this forum a long time...iv never as far as I remember quoted.....treat the forum as a conversation....Steve

PhilBell wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 07, 2023 12:37 pm

guidance on how to partially quote?

Phil, just take the quote and delete parts of it like I have above. You’re not the only one to have quoted all of a post and some forums do seem to use the quote system a lot.
The big thing is everyone is helpful and friendly which is the guiding light of this forum. Good luck with looking after your car and lots of happy motoring.

Geoff