The 'E' Type Forum

Hi guys my freshly rebuilt S2 seems to run hotter than I would like .. it sits even when cruising on the L of normal.
It’s fitted with a Radtec ally rad and fans and water wetter so was hoping for a cooler cat.!
Tried 2 gauges and sensors so wondering if maybe an air lock in the system.. any ideas how to bleed that out?
Fans kick in at 90degrees, sounds a bit late to me I would have thought 85 might b better ?
Cheers guys

What temperature is the car actually running at...try an infared reader on the manifold...voltage stabiliser?..thermostat....have you checked its operating temperature and timing and mixture....Steve

Hi Steve.. so IR thermometer on the rubber top hose reads 70 and similar at the housing, it runs an ecu which controls the fan which cones in at 90 deg, this is a separate sensor to the one which reads to the temperature gauge in the dash..
Reading up on other posts it seems these gauges are unreliable.
I thought that the IR gun was faulty as when the fans come on at 90, the temperature at the housing reads low 70’s.. but confusing tbh

Forgot to say voltage stabiliser new..
An airlock I thought but I don’t really fully understand why that wouldn’t bleed itself out running with the rad cap off ?

Hi Paul....you need to work out is your car actually running hot...or is the guage not accurate....these guages as we know arnt accurate...they dont give an exact tempetature..they are just a guide really......a new voltage stabiser dosnt mean that its working correctly....and your thermostat what temp is it and is it opening/ closing at its rated temp.....air lock shouldnt be a problem really..heater set to hot....do you still have an air bleed from thermostat houseing to radiator as per standard S2......Steve

Yes still have the air bleed Steve .. had to modify as it’s a Jenvey manifold but it’s still there.. can’t remember the thermo rating have to check old receipts, but I’m with you on the only a guide issue, unreliable readings .. think I’ll get it checked out with some more professional diagnosis when it returns to Northampton motorsport .. cheers Steve

Jenvey manifold.....so have you fitted the S2 thermostat houseing and still have bypass and standard type S2 thermostat.....Steve

Hi Steve sorry for the late response ..
Yes I kept the original thermostat housing in a Jenvey manifold … I know what your thinking, that dont fit, well yes you’d be right but u didn’t realise that the Jenvey manifold is longer in length in the water rail and so the thermostat housing now sits so further forward that upon shutting the bonnet it left a nice new power bulge in the new freshly painted bonnet !!!
So I chopped off about 14mm from the top of the housing,welded the hole shut and tapped a thread into the side of the housing, tapped a thread onto the old outlet pipe and I’m pleased to say it works well.
It’s easier to see the pics below to see how I got around it, it now has a decent 10mm clearance.

Hi Paul....i thought with the Jenvey manifold you use the S1 houseing and thermostat?......Steve

Well that as maybe Steve.. barratt and Jenvey told me for the S2 there was no adaption but Jenvey and barratt were working on one together.
I sent Peter the tech guy at barrat the adaption as he had been most helpful in trying to come up with a solution, he reckoned that was a good and easy way to solve the issue on the clearence.
However..
Tbh at this stage of the build I was not about to embark on a different cooling system the S1 rad and s2 are completely different as you know, it was far easier to just adapt what I had, any air in the system bleeds out the same way as it would have before .. and took only a few hours to do, which for me was key ..

Sorry to hear about the paint!

I am pretty sure you can just fit the thermostat without the center section?


Series 2 with a Jenvey manifold standard TBs and original style Rad

Series 2 with a Jenvey manifold standard TBs and a Radtec rad (much better)

Series One Jenvey Heritage throttle bodies with a Radtec Rad