Headlamp Sugar Scoop captive nuts on wrong side ?!

[rfs1957]

I'm increasingly concerned that I'm going to publish questions that I posted 10 or 15 years ago

Is there an emoticon for Confused Alzheimer ?

I had completely forgotten that my headlamp scoops have the centre, lower, mounting point with the captive nut on the BACK side of the flange.

So they are fitted with the nut functioning essentially as a spacer

The upper pair are to the front, the centre one to the back.

Left scoop, Right scoop, the same.

Is there a reason for this, has anyone else seen that, and Is This A Question I Have Already asked ?!

[abowie]

Is there a reason for this, has anyone else seen that

I'm pretty sure that's factory.

[Jeremy]

Rory, I seem to remember reading that it's done this way to position the scoop at a gradient, like a gutter, and in the eventuality of any water finding its way into the headlamp space it can drain away rearwards. Maybe I invented that. But it seems plausible that early cars might have accumulated little puddles of dirty water along the bottom of the scoops, and they decided that repositioning the captive nuts was a lot easier than redesigning the whole pressing.
(It doesn't work BTW...my car had dirty teardrops until I redoubled my attempts to make it all watertight, front and rear)

[Heuer]

Everything you need to know about sugar scoops (correct name 'Finishing Panel Assembly in Headlamp Recess'): viewtopic.php?p=35444#p35444

[mxke]

I am also at this point in the reassembly of my bonnet.
One question - the 3/4" length screw would go into the center nut, correct?
Then one "shims" the scoop under the three screws as required to get the scoop to fit the bonnet as close as one can?
When I took my car apart, the PO (AKA the "Butcher") had used nuts on the screws as spacers. Probably the easiest way to shim the scoop?
Thanks,
Mike

[rfs1957]

Many thanks to all, especially to David for the Biblical Reference Work.

Will see if I can add anything once I've successfully fitted these.

Jeremy, how did you go about excluding the water?

As it stands, it appears to be the case that anything that gets into the chrome bead area will end up being deposited right above the scoop, and drop right into it.

[Heuer]

Best way to seal the headlamps is to do what Jaguar did in period, liberal use of Dum Dum putty. However a few people here have tried to use it with limited success (search on Dum Dum). I don't think Dum Dum is still produced but Eastwood Flexible Strip Caulk is a good alternative and having strips makes application a lot easier. https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-flexib ... placement/

Personally I take off the covers and wipe the scoops

[caveman]

I used this:
https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-121-putty

[Jeremy]

Jeremy, how did you go about excluding the water?

I just went at it carefully from under the wing, pressing that black Eastwood caulk into every conceivable gap or hole that could possibly lead to the scoop space. I believe most of the water was being blasted in from behind by the wheels, and less from the top.

[Allrand]

I've found that Prestik works well in lieu of Dum Dum for plugging holes & joints. I caulked the front 2" of the beading joint, ie the section ahead of the bonnet diaphragm above the scoop area. I also sealed the glass seal around the glass and the seating lip on the bonnet.