The 'E' Type Forum

This has been going on for a while, I am pretty sure it is electrical because it cuts out immediately then in time starts immediately without pump noise. So far i have replaced the coil, had the electronic distributor checked out by the manufacturer and disconnected the Tacho, all to no avail. Apart from the ignition switch and a faulty fuse, am i missing something else?

If it suddenly cuts out is electrical. I'd suspect a fuse to start with. Old fuses had the wire soldered to the end caps. Cheap modern ones have the wire fed through the glass tube and the end caps interference fitted. They come loose. The wire doesn't connect well to the cap. If not the fuse the old Lucas fuse holders are not brilliant. The clips tarnish and corrode leading to intermittent loss of connection...

Ausie E Type - not to be confused with the real AussieEtype

I cannot help with your question but welcome to the forum

Garry

As originally wired though the coil supply is not fused (white wire) so it may be the ignition switch As they do fail. As you have an electronic ignition fitted it may be a fused supply to this that is the issue...

If no fault can be found with the live feeds to the ignition, check all the earth connection to the frame. In fact I'd check those first.

I had this once on another vehicle, and it was the king lead from coil to dizzie. The wire inside had broken and made contact most of the time, but didn't if the lead moved. We traced where in the lead it was by bending the lead with engine running, then cut it and screwed a steel screw (get you home stuff) into each end of the lead before taping up. Then forgot after getting back from France and drove it like that for next 2 years.

Had this on my 3.8, it was the LT Lucar connecter to the side of the distributor, had to wiggle it a bit to get it to start again.

Thank you for all your replies! You have given me a few more things to check. Also thank you Gary, you are a better speller than me !!!
Ian

Thank you all, when the engine cuts out I am measuring only 4 volts at the coil and 13volts at the switch so the switch needs replacing. Power to everything else in the switch is working including the starter motor.
Have a Merry Christmas.
Ian

I helped a friend with this issue. It turned out to be a loose nut on the 12 volt connection bolt under the heater box. The nut was loose allowing some rust to build up between the connections resulting in the engine dying and then coming back again. We cleaned up all the contacts and then tightened down the nut. Problem solved. But as mentioned above check the fuse boxes. Those prongs get loose.

Mike From over the pond.