The 'E' Type Forum

Ha, funny that, Jaguar knew what they were doing.

Now that everything else in the engine/cooling department is how it should be, especially having a thermostat that truly cuts off the by-pass once it gets up to temperature, my problem is that I can't get the engine hot enough.

Is this a record for an E-Type ?!

And the main culprit is probably that I was a smart-arse and cut holes in the shroud (neatly, mind), reckoning that with the summer 30-40°C we regularly see this would be a plus.



Anyway, I now need to buy another aluminium housing of the type shown, as the top support brackets I have made to measure ought to sit more happily on an identical, and presumably jig-welded, version.

Does anyone recognise this and know who still sells them ?

I think mine was from Derek Watson in Bakewell circa 2004.

Yes, I will ask them too - but seemed worth posting this just to say It's Not A Good Idea





Or do I bite the bullet and buy the Fosseway one ............ ??

Quite seriously I’d have thought a man of your calibre could fairly easily make up a replacement out of welded aluminium

Geoff

Can you not just block all the holes? One large plate with a hole for the fan...rivet or epoxy in place ...Steve

Cutting holes in a rear mount fan shroud only undermines the ability of fan to create a low pressure zone behind the radiator and thereby reduce the effectiveness of the fan. It will increase the opportunity for non fan assisted airflow across the radiator core when the fan is not running, which is perhaps what is working against you in terms of getting engine temp higher. Assuming a correctly functioning temperature gauge, it seems to me the first place to investigate is the thermostat, which is after all the device that has the job of regulating to engine temperature. An incorrectly low specification or a stuck open thermostat could well cause your under temperature condition.

I have effectively given myself a bigger radiator, under non-fan conditions, and the consequences are indeed obvious.

My engine won’t go over 70C in 15C ambient.

Regarding the other components, if the engine doesn’t attain the temperature rating of the thermostat, the behaviour of the latter is irrelevant.

If it is stuck such that it does not move (the “cold” position, such that the bypass is fully open) then the engine will overheat.

If it is stuck in the “hot” position, bypass fully closed, then the engine will just take longer to warm up, but it will attain its steady state eventually.

The temp gauge has been checked and graduated with kettle and fruit-thermometer technology.

Upcoming trip to Mallorca with the Barcelona Jag Club, looks like it’s a discrete cut-a-shroud in 3mm plywood coming up, disguised with a rattle can, fortunately no concours judging

rfs1957 wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 05, 2025 8:05 am

Upcoming trip to Mallorca with the Barcelona Jag Club, looks like it’s a discrete cut-a-shroud in 3mm plywood coming up, disguised with a rattle can, fortunately no concours judging

And we won’t tell anyone though a few photos from that would be interesting to see. Have fun

Steve (bitsobrits) is spot on regarding the effectiveness of the shroud/fan.
Hence the requirement also to put a seal around between the rad and the shroud.

In this situation I would say it's the front of the rad that needs help, a few 50's cars did have a rad curtain, my Volvo did, probably for the extremes of Swedish weather, but they were always mounted in front of the rad, it effectively reduces the size of the cooling area.

On the track we have many times adjusted cooling with Duct tape in key areas, it doesn't look great but hey..