The 'E' Type Forum

Hi all, bit of a question really regarding exhaust manifolds…

My car has the S/S 6 branch manifold as sold by Robey, and whilst I understand the benefits of this type of system I actually prefer the aesthetics of the std vitreous enamel manifolds. I have heard that they crack if not run in properly etc, and know that non enamelled versions are available of course. The 6 branch on my car is also linked to a full SS system.

I wondered if anyone else has the same 6 branch manifold and has ever considered doing the same?

The downpipe section of mine is touching the torsion bar I think as it knocks on start up, and that’s easily remedied by moving the engine on its mounts but it does seem tight. Am I right in assuming that if I were to buy standard exhaust manifolds and down pipes that they will match the existing system?

Anyone got any thoughts or had experience of the same?

Best regards,

Steve.

Hi Steve....the original type cast manifolds do give a performance enhancement over the SS headers....info on the forum if you search....assume that no aftermarket part will be a perfect fit....and match up exactly to what you have....enamel does crack....does the warm up work...maybee for a while...what guarantee does the supplier give?....the exhaust is close to the torsion bars and takes fiddling with to get it all fitting ok....Steve

As was stated in previous times, if the manifold enamel was still in good condition after a few thousand miles then the car wasn’t being driven properly

We're planning to use our original exhaust manifolds. I've learnt that a solution to the rain problem, and the heat damage to the bonnet problem, is to add a bolt-on (eg removable) "shield" over the top of the manifold and under the louvres that diverts water away from manifolds. Need to work out a pattern then make it (happy to share details once proven out!). Our plan is to get the manifolds re-enamelled... does anyone know a good UK enameller? Ideally in the Midlands, but for a reputable supplier, further afield is fine. Kingfisher are close by but I have no idea as to whether what they do is any good or not.
Thanks all
Rebecca

So...what's the point of having them re-enameled if you are hiding them under a rain shield?

The heat/rain shield is a simple bolt-on/bolt-off job so only needs to go on when travelling. Once at destination, can be easily removed to reveal the lovely manifolds....

Any ideas on reputable enamellers?

So your plan is to block the louvres when driving? Where will the heat go that the louvres were designed to vent? As for rain, unless you are stationary in pouring rain then at any speed it should not enter the louvres, imho. Put the blocks in place if you intend to wash your car with hot exhausts perhaps
If you’re trying not to have the new enamel ruined then don’t bother driving the car, just put it on a trailer!

A bit hostile, Geoff. They're only exploring options.

I wish I knew somewhere to get enamelling done. I think Zircotec were mooted at some time but I can't remember whether they could do them in the standard grey colour. Or even if they're still around.

Good luck in finding somewhere to get them done.

Regards

May not help in this case, but Jet-hot in North Carolina did a fantastic job on my stock manifold. You can pick your color. https://www.jet-hot.com

Thanks all for the advice. Rain shield will also act as heat shield protecting bonnet from extreme heat. And yes, it's exactly the problem that when coming to a stop/stationary in the rain is when the problem occurs (there's a whole other thread on this). I want to drive the car, not trailer it.

Is there a need for a heat protection shield for the bonnet....I dont see E types with bonnets damaged by heat......obviously if there is a lot of filler under the paint in this area or a grp bonnet then it could suffer from heat.....but its not an issue I see discussed.........Steve

I’d disagree with Steve with regards to aftermarket fit..
I have Hayward and Scott complete S/S system.
The fit is exemplary no touching of the downpipes everything lines up. They use a jig when manufacturing for an A1 fit, it’s expensive (ish) system but worth every penny.

As for performance when matched with a ported head and larger valves (1.875) the performance is very much noticeable, probably zero bhp upgrade on a std engine, and better off with the cast items.
(Sorry going abit of topic!)
Ceramic coating inside and out is a worthwhile addition lowering under bonnet temp by 20%.

Hi Paul...my comments wernt relating to complete systems....the OP was refering to matching to existing parts.....Steve

Steve.. he says that he has a 6 branch ss manifold, not cast original, appologies if I’m missing something here..

Thanks for all the replies chaps.

Just to clarify my OP was really about if I go back to standard enamelled manifolds and down pipes would they fit directly on to my SS exhaust system. I have since discovered that they will.

One thing I have picked out that makes me think maybe original is better is the heat issue. Enamelled manifolds were enamelled for a reason, and I am not certain but I’m sure aesthetics wasn’t top of the list of reasons. I’d say it reduces heat, which is good on many counts?

Each to their own of course, I prefer the look of enamelled ones but that’s me. The heat benefit is also important to me.

It’s food for thought further down the line…

Steve.

If you have tubular manifolds you need to fit a heat shield to protect the frames otherwise you will bubble the paint. They also produce a lot of noise including an annoying pinging sound on tick-over. More importantly the cause a torque dip between 2,250 and 2,750 rpm, the very point in an E-Type where you need power to overtake. Basically they are a nightmare and should be avoided at all cost. Chapter, verse and proof here: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3462&p=23287

Hi all

Re reply #11, I had read in another forum (not this one) about heat damage to bonnet paint due to manifold heat. Good point about rain/heat shield potentially negating heat dissipation through louvres. Still no luck on enamellers unfortunately!
Thanks, Rebecca

#16/17…
Blistering bonnets never seen it, I’d think to get it that hot you’d be in real trouble, think you’ll find it’s prob poor body prep..

Anyhow, my take on the manifolds are..
If your engine is in standard trim (ie around 210ish hp) then as mentioned the torque is compromised a bit, not so if your looking for the engine to breath more efficiently with larger inlet valves/high lift cams etc if that’s the case then they’re going to help .

The heat as mentioned is considerable from them.
I certainly wouldn’t want to be shielding any heat from escaping from out of those louvres..

I have S/S manifolds from Hayward and Scott certainly very good items, however I’ve never had the sticky brakes problem, but I have since fitting them, especially with the really hot summer weather.

Just to put some meat on the bone… I’ve had them zircotec ceramic coated, fitted a fosseway heatshield, and although the brakes didn’t stick at that point the servo was bloody hot!
So to combat (and just incase) that I’ve now put an insulated thermal barrier the servo side of the heatshield so it’s attached to the other side of the engine frame 1” behind the fosseway item leaving a good air gap, only now in heavy slow London traffic are we all good..

Stick with the enamel originals, try Andy at Hutsons for advice where to get them done, he’ll know