Bonnet removal - how to?

Technical advice Q&A
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00series
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#1 Bonnet removal - how to?

Post by 00series » Mon Apr 18, 2011 11:54 am

For those time served E type owners amongst you this may sound like a daft question but: Whats the easiest way to remove the bonnet on a Series 2?

I have been informed that both the following methods are the best - but which one is actually best?
1st method: remove the 4 bolts (total x 8) on either side at front of bonnet - taking care to note position of bonnet spacers.
2nd method: remove the single bolts (total x 2) on either side of hanging frames.

Also: how many humans does it take 2 or 3?

Many Thanks,
Bert

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PeterCrespin
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#2

Post by PeterCrespin » Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:13 pm

Hi Bert - nice to see you the other day :-)

Ask yourself - do you want to re-shim the bonnet or just take it on and off? If the former, then feel free to undo every bolt in sight and be prepared to have a lot of 'fun' and chipped paint getting it correct.

If it fits fine at present and you only want to remove/refit the bonnet for access, undo the two bolts that hold it on. And your multiplug of course, and gas strut...

Pete
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas

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MarkE
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#3

Post by MarkE » Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:01 pm

2 people to remove plus a watcher for safety....if it starts to go when 2 people are carrying it ( when it's upright) it's difficult to hold. And have lots of foam rubber / squashy stuff to rest it on.

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christopher storey
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#4

Post by christopher storey » Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:51 pm

The bonnets are actually positioned not by the bolts on the swivels , but by two ( one each side) "top hat" bushes which fit into the front frames . The bolts merely ensure that the top hats cannot fall out . The easiest way of removing the bonnet ( always assuming the top hats are not seized in the frames) is to disconnect the multipin plug - it's surprising how many people forget this - disconnect the spring holder at the bonnet ( or the hydraulic damper ditto) - take out the two bolts, and then remove the top hats using e.g. a mole wrench . Whilst this last is being done if the bonnet is to be held by men, you need 3 helpers, 1 at each side under the wheelarches, and 1 at the grille mouth . It is surprising just how far forward the centre of gravity of the bonnet is - about 4 to 6 inches forward of the wheel centres. Another way of doing it is to raise the nose of the car in the garage by about 6 inches, place a good deal of cushioning under the nose area, and then tie the rear of the open bonnet off to a roof beam . Then disconnect the springs/hydraulic and raise the bonnet to the vertical and adjust the tie to keep it there . Ensure that the cushioing is sufficient to support the bonnet at this position, and then remove the top hats and push/drive the car back away from the bonnet

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#5

Post by 00series » Tue Apr 19, 2011 10:52 am

Excellent - it's tips & tactics like this that i can never find in the manuals - so thanks for taking time out to offer information & share your knowledge.

The bonnet is coming off this afternoon & the interior will be partialy stripped out in preparation for an early Wednesday morning bonnetless stealth drive to the garage where the following list of work will take place.

Replace the BW 3 ratio auto with a Supra W58 5 speed.
Lose the USA spec Strangelburgs & replace with David Lonsdale rebuilt triple Su's.
Fit splined hubs for the chrome wire wheels to replace steel disc wheels.
Electronic ignition to replace points.
Modify the Falcon stainless exhaust so it flows gas a little quicker & sounds just a little bit louder as it's currently limo quiet.
Drop the front suspension to factory specified height as the fronts sitting up high like a hungy labrador.
spin off oil filter.
New windscreen to replace the pitted original.
Explain to the Mrs the difference between 'investing' & not just 'spending' money on vehicles.

Hopefully back on the road in two weeks - Wish me luck.
Cheers,
Bert.

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