The original Jaguar torsion bar adjuster?

[johnben]

I have adjusted the torsion bars on my Series 1 for the second time, not an easy job for me. I did a lot of research on this and other forums before attempting the job and obviously checked all my E Type books/manuals before proceeding. One of my manuals The E Type Owners Workshop Manual, Autobook 758 by Kenneth Ball shows a torsion bar cam adjuster on the front suspension. As you can see from the image it a neat little thing, has anyone got one on his or her car? Did it ever make it to the production line?
Whilst on the dark art of the torsion bar my eternal thanks to the person on the forum who first thought of the turnbuckle instead of the setting bar, this not only make the job a lot safer but far more doable. I would suggest adding a bow shackle to the turnbuckle for another job. The turnbuckle acts as a setting bar but more importantly then enables tension to be applied to the lower wishbone to draw it up so that the stub axle and upper wishbone can be connected. The bow shackle is used on the front lower wishbone lever between the shock absorber and anti roll positions and is fastened to the ?O? of the turnbuckle, the hook is placed on the upper wishbone fulcrum shaft. Applying tension allows the shock absorbers to be fitted with ease.
Whilst the complete torsion bar and fittings were out of the car I did play with the idea of making a jig as there can only be one given angle between the lower wishbone lever and the plate at the other end of the bar for any desired ride height.
Has anyone done this? Would it work?

John B


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[PeterCrespin]

The illustration shows the cam adjuster on the V12 system. Hard luck!

Not sure i understand about the bow shackle? I when I used the turn buckle I just used a tommy bar on the turnbuckle and had the ends over the two damper bolts.

Pete

[johnben]

Hi Pete

Fully extended my dampers were about 1/2 inch short of the bolt holes, if I had used the damper bolts I could not have got the damper in. As you know you are trying to move againt the torsion bar in tension but I am sure there are various methods for achieving the same end. Regarding the V12 the manual only covers the 6 cylinder engine.

John B

[1954Etype]

John, clue is in the title 'Series 1,2 and 3, 1961 to 72

[PeterCrespin]

Sorry. I just used the turn buckle as a setting link on the free lower wishbone to measure exact centre to centre distances on the two bolts when installing the torsion bars. I didn't use it as a damper installation device. Gravity and a jack under the wishbone worked fine for me on that job. Not sure what you've been doing but if you've done it twice and your ride height is still out then a change is called for perhaps?

Pete

[johnben]

The clue is indeed in the title, I see were I have got confused, the Autobook 758 covers the Series 1,2 and 3 but only the 3.8 and 4.2 engines, obviously the Series 3 relates to those few carswhich were fitted with the 4.2 engine, hence the reference to the cam adjuster.

Thanks

John Ben

[johnben]

Hi Pete two methods of achieving the same end I suppose. Before I started my ride height measured from ground to the lower wishbone pivot point was 7'' for a 2+2 it should be 8 3/4 '', + or - 1/4. My first attempt was 9'', though it was in acceptable limits and would probably have dropped over time the car did not look right from inside or out. It is now 8 1/2'' which looks right to me and I am now quite comfortable with adjusting it further if required. I don't know what 'change' you mean, if it is mechanic then I agree this sort of thing is not my strongest point.
John Ben

[PeterCrespin]

I mean if you are having to use a turnbuckle to compress the suspension and install a damper, something odd is going on. At resting position the damper is somewhat compressed, so you don't even have to move the lower wishbone up that much to install a fully-extended gas damper, let alone a twin-wall OEM style.

Pete