The 'E' Type Forum

Hello:
I think I know the answer, but just maybe there might be some helpful answer out there.

Is there any in-situ remedy for stopping oil leaks from the rear main bearing? The present seal in my '62 SI is the original rope type. At the time I rebuilt the engine there were no after market upgrades or subs. that I was aware of. The rope seal was installed as per the instructions contain in the service manual. At the time of installation I knew that the oil would leak because the design, and material used were flawed, and bound to leak, but I had no choice.

So, short of taking the engine apart, is there any thing that I can do to minimize the rear seal oil leak ?
I use 20/50 oil.

And, if I were to rebuild the engine again, what rear main seal is now available that others have used that is tight????

Thanks to all who have ideas, and answers for this notorious Jag condition.

Frank Sciannameo :D

A correctly prepared and fitted rear crank seal should work perfectly well. This involves soaking it in oil for at least 24 hours and using the correct sizing tool. The alternative 'lip' seals are supposed to work but they require the crank to be modified and this is not reversible. The new seal is then cut and super-glued back together once in place. If it has worked you will know immediately you start the engine because the failure mode is total - oil will pour out and it is back to the drawing board.

One thing you might want to check is the breather housing on the front of the cylinder head is not blocked. If it is then the increased crankcase pressure will blow the rear crank seal.

Without in any way wishing to infer a link with myself, there is apparently a thing called a 'Sneaky Pete' used in the USA to replace rope seals in situ.

Not sure why they didn't call it a Sneaky Angus or Sneaky David, but if you look up the term in the Jag-Lovers E-type archives, on www.Jag-Lovers.org, you should get plenty of hits. Haven't checked here, but maybe it has crossed the Atlantic to this forum too?

Anyway, it is a long thin wire contraption supposed to pull the old upper half of the seal out of its groove from over the crank and reinstall a fresh piece. Personally, I think pulling the new part into position would tend to narrow the seal in tension, which is not exactly what you're after compared to compacting and pressing down the seal when fitted with the crank removed. You are free to do that as normal of course for the lower part, which is the bit that often leaks.

All-in-all it sounds like a bodge that wouldn't be worth bothering with, if it weren't such a pain to do the dismantling needed to do the job correctly. Nevertheless, I believe there are some reports of good results with it and I daresay someone would send you one if you were unable to find a source here (or are you in the USA anyhow?).

Not-at-all sneaky Pete

Kit costs $7 so must be worth a go at least!

Heuer wrote:Kit costs $7 so must be worth a go at least!

I always was a cheap date...