Anti roll bar and a shock absorber mystery

Springer · Post by **Springer** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:37 pm

I meantioned this on my restauration report but it probably drowned in other details so I put the questions up here.
I found it very strange that the shock absorbers had to be set different on each side. On the left side I needed to put the distance ring on the lower mounting between the shock absorber and the wishbone, while on the right side it was no room for it and had to be turned outwards. I can not really see any difference so I wonder if it is the angle of the wishbone or the bolt where the SA is fitted that is the difference. Anyone experienced something similar?

I am then left to figure out the anti roll bar. Since I never took the car appart just took over a not to structured bunch of cardboxes I miss some parts. I have not found the plate that is meant to be between the alloy spacer and the bar support bracket. Is it possible that this plate do not exist on my car?
I also have some difficulties to understand exactly how it is fitted. It seems to me that the lower bolt on the anti roll bar fitting is shares with one of the four bolts in the front lower wishone fitting which also holds the front par of the frame and that the alloy spacer goes in there. However it is a plate on that bolt already building it a few millimter out from the frame which I would think should be compensated on the upper bolt in order to keep the alloy spacer firm against the frame but it is not. someone that can help me to see the light? See photo below:

I have Chris' book and it has some very good pictures of the anti roll bar fitting but it appear he do not have the plate I have between the main frame and the front part of the frame. The frame was put together when I got it and these plates were already in place. They probably lift the front part of the frame and I guess also the bonnet but I have no idea if they are needed. Anyone with opinions?
Thanks

Post by **1954Etype** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:44 pm

Definately not original and probably fitted to make the bonnet fit? I would measure your frames to ensure the car hasn't been whacked in the past and someone has added shims to try and square it up. If this is the case, you will have to sort it out as the car will never handle properly. To make the bonnet fit, you shim between the hinge and the bonnet and never where that shim has been fitted. (I can't think of any other reason why that shim has been put there).

Angus

paulsco · Post by **paulsco** » Thu Jun 28, 2012 12:08 pm

It looks to me like the picture frame has been slightly crushed in that area, hence the need for the spacer?

Paul

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Thu Jun 28, 2012 3:19 pm

paulsco wrote:It looks to me like the picture frame has been slightly crushed in that area, hence the need for the spacer?

Paul

Can't happen with the uncrushable front wishbone trunnion block. The damage IMO is from someone trying to lever out a stuck mount and stretching/distorting the frame to get it out. Difficult to advise without seeing all the parts, but the only reason for keeping that spacer would be if the vertical shims on the hinges were already maxxed-out and the rear edge of the wheel arch was still way behind the sill. If it was lined up OK without, and it was just that the back edge of the bonnet was too long, I'd trim the bonnet. Looks like it may all be painted by now though?

Since the car is in bits, I'd tend to rectify each issue as I found it and work through any consequences further down the line. However, if the consequences were major (read: expensive) I might be tempted to shim the bonnet frame. Be interesting to know if there's one on the other side and I would be taking some very careful wheelbase and related geometry measures on each side to check if the frame itself or bulkhead has been telescoped by an impact.

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Thu Jun 28, 2012 10:22 pm

Definitely not supposed to be a spacer there and that one looks pretty thick too. I guess it might have been a bodge to move the bonnet forward if it meant that too many spacers were needed. On the plus side no-one can see it.

Springer · Post by **Springer** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 7:25 am

Thanks for your replies. Highly appreciated. I have spoken to previous owner. This car has been run in Arizona and they have changed the engine to a 4,2 litre which I one day will change back again. He said they fitted a larger fan and had to lift the bonnet to make it fit. If that is the case I guess I now just take them out and change the fan as Norway is definately not Arizona. The frame looks OK and it is the same spacer on both sides so it should be straight. Here is a picture of the fan. Looks too big?

I also wondered about that mystery with the shock absorbers. Does it makes sense to you that on one side you need to use the spacer on the lower fitting while on the other side not? Everything else looks srtaight and in order.

tinworm · Post by **tinworm** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 7:44 am

Hi ,if nothing is bent check the two front torsion bar levers are a pair ie one right hand and one left hand and not two of one side with one fitted to the wrong side as they are handed.

regards tinworm

Post by **1954Etype** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 8:40 am

Left hand side shocker is the wrong way round as the adjuster should be to the outside of the car. You should be able to twist through 180 degrees.

Are you seriously saying the PO shimmed the bonnet to make the radiator fit?

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 12:09 pm

Springer wrote:Thanks for your replies. Highly appreciated. I have spoken to previous owner. This car has been run in Arizona and they have changed the engine to a 4,2 litre which I one day will change back again. He said they fitted a larger fan and had to lift the bonnet to make it fit. ... Here is a picture of the fan. Looks too big?

It is complete nonsense of course, and it has to be totally wrong since the fan does not protrude outside the existing standard shroud or radiator.

Was the original fan motor still fitted? If not, it cannot have been a fore/aft clearance issue either for the new smaller fan...

Springer · Post by **Springer** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 3:14 pm

PeterCrispin you certainly have a point there but that was what he said. Maybe the answer is that they have moved the radiator forward to fit the fan between it and the engine. I don't know. The fan on the radiator is unchanged since I took over the project. Anyhow, I just take them out and solve next problem when I get there. I guess this is standard restauration reality show. Next crisis is soon to come

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 5:06 pm

The fan looks no larger than a Kenlowe so I can't see why he would have to move the bonnet forward but some people have some funny ideas!

As for the shocks make sure your bottom arm isn't bent. Try a straight edge against it.
Mine was bent when I got it and was hard to tell no other damage on mine that I could see so a good bump on a high kerb could do it.

If it is bent don't try and straighten it get a new one or a good second hand one.

Dave

Post by **mgcjag** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 5:54 pm

Hi Springer......Did you use a distance setting link between the shock mounts when you set up the torsion bars also have posted a photo of the anti roll bar mount on your restoration page the plate you refer to holds the brake pipe on my 2+2.....Steve

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 6:20 pm

Dave K wrote: If it is bent don't try and straighten it get a new one or a good second hand one. Dave

Dave - to each their own but the wishbones are of a type that don't even need to be heated to straighten them, although it is easier. Repair (within reason) is perfectly OK and there are no fatigue issues.

Pete

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 9:50 pm

PeterCrespin wrote:
Dave K wrote: If it is bent don't try and straighten it get a new one or a good second hand one. Dave
Dave - to each their own but the wishbones are of a type that don't even need to be heated to straighten them, although it is easier. Repair (within reason) is perfectly OK and there are no fatigue issues.

Pete

I straightened mine OK, I know they are forged steel but got one of Richard Smith at Stoneleigh cheap so thought it best since it's a stressed part.
I flogged the straightened one although I did tell the buyer what I had done.
Dave

Springer · Post by **Springer** » Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:57 am

mgcjag wrote:Hi Springer......Did you use a distance setting link between the shock mounts when you set up the torsion bars also have posted a photo of the anti roll bar mount on your restoration page the plate you refer to holds the brake pipe on my 2+2.....Steve

The torsion bars are just put in temporarely as I have not set in the engine yet. The plan is to get in the front suspension then the rear suspension which will give me wheels to push it on. Take it on s trailer out to a Jag expert that have a lift and other equipment and to put in the engine from below. When that is done he will adjust the torsion bars so the car is level. If I by that time also have the electrical wiring set he will be able to help me with the inavitable trouble shooting to come and get the engine started.

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Anti roll bar and a shock absorber mystery

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