Rear shock absorber replacement

Technical advice Q&A

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Mike L
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Location: Brampton Canada

#1 Rear shock absorber replacement

Post by Mike L » Sat Nov 24, 2012 2:25 am

I am attempting to replace the shock absorbers in my 2+2 series 2.
I have removed the 4 spring shock /absorber assemblies from the IRS, and now need to seperate the springs and shocks. Has anyone any advice on how best to achieve this.
Mike Longmead

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abowie
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#2

Post by abowie » Sat Nov 24, 2012 6:01 am

Carefully. There's a lot of potential energy stored in those compressed springs.

Option one is to rent/buy/make a spring compressor. Option 2 is to take them to your friendly neighbourhood suspension shop and pay them a small amount to do it for you.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457..oops. Jezza the V12 XJS race car.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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Moeregaard
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#3

Post by Moeregaard » Sat Nov 24, 2012 5:44 pm

Go with Andrew's suggestion and buy/rent/borrow a spring compressor, or have the work done. It's not a complicated job with the correct tools, but an extremely dangerous one without them.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036

Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....

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Kalle Borg
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#4

Post by Kalle Borg » Thu Nov 29, 2012 10:15 pm

Sorry for my poor English...
I use two tie-down ratchet straps, the type with no hooks.

C

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christopher storey
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#5

Post by christopher storey » Thu Nov 29, 2012 10:49 pm

Well, this subject is being discussed, somewhat acrimoniously , on another thread, but I must caution with the utmost strength against makeshift techniques such as ratchet straps. They are far too weak to cope with this job, and are a serious, and potentially fatal , accident waiting to happen . Removing springs is one of the two most dangerous jobs on almost any car, the other being having any significant body parts under in it when it is supported only by a jack. Either buy the proper tool - they are not expensive compared with a funeral - or take the shocker/spring combos to a workshop who have the proper gear . You would not believe the amount of energy stored within a compressed road spring - it can produce a clean hole through a 150mm brick wall in the merest fraction of a second

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PETE V
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#6

Post by PETE V » Fri Nov 30, 2012 12:47 pm

Christopher's note is worth repeating, having had a very close shave during my training when a very poorly maintained correct tool failed.

The spring removed one finger from the operators hand, went through a car, breaking two door windows and then through a breeze block wall.

Please use the correct tools
Pete V
1967 S1 2+2

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stef
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#7

Post by stef » Sat Dec 01, 2012 9:59 am

I had no problem disassembling the springs. Put the spring compressors on and tightened them up. A few scrape marks on the shocks, but they were being discarded anyways.

Putting them together was a different matter. With the compressors on the springs, there was just not enough room for the shocks. I tried but it was getting dangerous so I took them up to the suspension shop and had them put it together.

Now I know why SNG sell the shock/springs assembled
Stefan
Sydney Australia
1963 3.8 OTS

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Topic author
Mike L
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#8 Dust shields

Post by Mike L » Fri Dec 14, 2012 5:01 pm

I have removed the first shock absorber assembly, and removed the shock from the spring. I used a custom made tool to compress the springs, details of which I will post later this week.
The springs currently installed are Koni,s, there is also a tubular dust shield installed between the spring and the shock. I have found no reference to this dust shield in any of the service or parts manuals. Could this part be specific to Koni shocks.
The Koni,s appear to ne in good order, however the car came with a new set of standard Whitehead shocks, still in boxes. The question is, is it better to retain the Koni,s or replace them with the new shocks
<a href="http://s1078.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 9.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w49 ... G_1999.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>

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Mike L
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#9

Post by Mike L » Fri Dec 14, 2012 6:54 pm

TImageheis is the picture that failed at last post

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Topic author
Mike L
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2011 1:01 am
Location: Brampton Canada

#10

Post by Mike L » Mon Jan 14, 2013 10:12 pm

I have followed this and other threads on this subject with interest, and the material gathered, some good and some downright scary, prompted me to design and build a spring compressor specifically for the E-type rears.
The criteria were
1 Low cost. The resulting spring compressor cost under $20.00 to produce
2 lightweight. The ends are made of aluminum, and the base of steel tube
3 Safe to operate. The four post design ensures the spring cannot slip out of the compressor.
I have completed my shock installation using this setup, and it worked perfectly. Centering the spring on the shock to install the collets was a breeze using the four posts.
Attached are drawings of the component parts, except the rods. These are ?? threaded rod 18? long with a nut welded to one end.
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

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Heuer
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#11

Post by Heuer » Tue Oct 08, 2013 11:04 am

Just removed the rear shocks with a view to replacing the awful Koni's with Boge. Quickly discovered that getting a DIY spring compressor that would fit the tight coils of the E-Type was a real problem. I tried a couple of garages and Kwik-Fit but none of their tools or adapters would do the job. Suddenly hit me that the place to go for small springs would be a motorbike shop and sure enough they had the perfect tool to do it. Springs off and back on the new shocks in minutes for the price of a drink. They used this tool to do it:
Image
?433 from Amazon if you have a few to do!:


Or one of these for ?165:
Image
http://tinyurl.com/oq62uo8
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB

Add your E-Type to our World Map: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810

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