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#1 Running in rebuilt engine
Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 1:26 am
by meeka
I have a 1968 series 1.5, 4.2l and have just collected it after an engine rebuild. Reconditioner has given practical instructions - no labouring, avoid prolonged idling, drive normally and avoid being too gentle etc. I can follow that OK, but I wondered whether those with experience would have more specific advice. As an accountant with decidedly limited technical abilities I prefer numbers - x minutes at y revs, maximum revs in first 100, 200, 300, 400 miles etc.
Is it possible to be that precise and if so can anyone help me out based on their own experiences?
Many thanks,
Graham.
#2
Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 8:41 am
by christopher storey
When they were new, Jaguar advised no more than 2500 rpm for the first 1000 miles, and IIRC a limit of 3000 rpm for the next 1000 miles. Times , and particularly lubricants, have changed since then, and of course a rebuild is not quite the same as a brand new engine. Personally, on my rebuilds I have limited it to 3000 rpm for 500 miles, avoiding more than about half throttle during that time , and then over the next 500 miles have gradually but only for short periods let it run to 3500 and then 4000 rpm in the lower gears with increasing throttle openings for short bursts
#3
Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 12:28 pm
by Heuer
Graham
You can buy one of these for ?3.50 from SNG:
A copy of the original Jaguar running-in instruction sticker which was affixed to the windscreen to the right of the driver as an aide memoir. So you will be 100% original!
#4
Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 5:34 pm
by meeka
Perfect! Many thanks, Christopher.
#5
Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 7:25 pm
by wilde
Dear all,
anyone can tell me when Jaguar make the transition from the blue running-in sticker to the red ?
#6 Engine Running-In Decal
Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 2:39 pm
by budmarston@aol.com
Several Jaguar experts with decades of E-type experience tell me that Jaguar stopped using the red 'Wings' decal in 1960.
I believe that the black 'Growler' running-in decal is the only authentic one for E-types.
I would be interested in information suggesting otherwise!
#7
Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 9:13 pm
by abowie
In the old days it mattered more. With modern ring materials and better honing these days it matters less so.
The advice you have been given is pretty good. Don't drive in too low a gear under 1000rpm. I avoided going over 3000 rpm for the first 500 miles, but otherwise drove the car pretty normally. Do an oil and filter change after the first few hundred miles.
To be honest, driving a 4.2 rarely requires you to go over 3000 anyway. These things lope along on the huge torque they produce.
#8
Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2015 12:31 pm
by Mark Gordon
"Don't drive in too low a gear under 1000 rpm." Don't you mean "too high a gear", Andrew?
#9
Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2015 9:13 pm
by abowie
Mark Gordon wrote:"Don't drive in too low a gear under 1000 rpm." Don't you mean "too high a gear", Andrew?
I live in Australia. We are upside down.
#10
Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2015 11:13 am
by PeterCrespin
abowie wrote:Mark Gordon wrote:"Don't drive in too low a gear under 1000 rpm." Don't you mean "too high a gear", Andrew?
I live in Australia. We are upside down.
Right. So to complete the set - in places near the equator you shouldn't drive in too 'left' a gear when travelling eastwards or too 'right' a gear going west. Here endeth the spatial orientation lesson. :-)
#11
Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2015 11:47 am
by JagWaugh
PeterCrespin wrote:abowie wrote:Mark Gordon wrote:"Don't drive in too low a gear under 1000 rpm." Don't you mean "too high a gear", Andrew?
I live in Australia. We are upside down.
Right. So to complete the set - in places near the equator you shouldn't drive in too 'left' a gear when travelling eastwards or too 'right' a gear going west. Here endeth the spatial orientation lesson. :-)
Can't trust the odo/speedo at the equator... the miles are longer there.