Riveting the Heater & Vacuum Pipes

Technical advice Q&A
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chrisvine
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#1 Riveting the Heater & Vacuum Pipes

Post by chrisvine » Fri Feb 01, 2013 12:16 pm

As the muzzle diameter of my rivet gun is over 21mm, it's not possible to get the gun down to the rivet head without causing the rivet to be at quite a jaunty angle. Most of the other rivet guns I've seen have similar dimensions.

I've tried using a spacer tube on the rivet pin so the gun is raised away from the rivet head and the angle reduced. However the pin is then not long enough to reach the jaws inside the gun.

Are there guns with thinner muzzles or a technique for getting the rivets on squarely?
1969 S2 OTS, Elise S1

Restoration Blog : http://etype.chrisvine.com/

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norman m. macleod
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#2 Riveting the vacuum and water pipes

Post by norman m. macleod » Fri Feb 01, 2013 1:57 pm

When confronted by the same problem, I bit the bullet and just filed a deep flat on one side of the pop-riveter "nose"(!), on the basis that pop-riveters are cheap........
Regards,
Norman
1967 S1 2+2

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Dave K
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#3

Post by Dave K » Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:50 pm

Chris,

There must be different types out there because I never had a problem.
Just to make sure you are aware of the tip for successfully fitting the heater pipes, put some rope through them or better still bungee cord aand tie it off.
This will keep the heater pipe in place when you rivet it.

Dave

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chrisvine
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#4

Post by chrisvine » Fri Feb 01, 2013 3:41 pm

Thanks Norman and Dave,

My rivet guns is only a quality Halfords item and so is ideal for being adapted/butchered.

And thanks for the rope/bunge idea - I'll definitely use that
1969 S2 OTS, Elise S1

Restoration Blog : http://etype.chrisvine.com/

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christopher storey
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#5

Post by christopher storey » Fri Feb 01, 2013 6:47 pm

Another tip : surround the area to be riveted with several layers of duct ( or is it duck ) tape . This guards against damaging the paint when the rivet gun wanders as the shank snaps off

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