Replacing or repairing the floors

Technical advice Q&A

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jonr
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#1 Replacing or repairing the floors

Post by jonr » Thu Feb 28, 2013 8:17 pm

Hi, I bought a nearly fully restored 1968 OTS where PO said the rust was removed. It was only a partial truth. When I removed the paint and seam sealer I discovered a floor repair I need to do again.
Left side looks okay, but the right side is not so good. Heavy use of pop rivets and little welding.
In the front of the floor there is a small area not replaced and with heavy rust. There are also some rust at the bottom rear part of the crossmember and the bottom front part of the tunnel assembly.
I am not building a concours car, but want the repairs to be solid and durable, and the floor must have the necessary strength.
The car allready fully assembled except for the interior so it's not as easy to repair as if it had been stripped and in a rotisserie.
The easiest thing would have been to replace all the pop rivets with plug welds and stitch welds along the edges.
A bigger job will be to cut out the floor and replace it with new panels. If so I am unsure if I should replace the floor both front and rear, or just rear. I am also unsure about the cross member can be repaired or should be replaced.
I am also unsure about what can be done with the motor / gear in place and if the exhaust system need to be removed. What else need to be removed?

Does anyone have any advice?

Here are some pictures:

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Jon

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abowie
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#2

Post by abowie » Thu Feb 28, 2013 10:33 pm

If it was my car I'd get the whole lot replaced properly. you have to wonder what the cross members look like inside too.
While difficult I suspect a competent panel shop could do this without stripping the whole car. A full floor panel is available from most suppliers at quite reasonable cost. The cross members are simple square section and the shop would easily be able to fabricate them.
I have just had this area repaired on my roadster. http://www.flickr.com/photos/71499700@N ... 884936532/
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia

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vipergts
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#3

Post by vipergts » Fri Mar 01, 2013 7:46 am

Me too....I'd replace the lot then at least you have the knowledge of it being a proper job plus when you sell it you have no worries.

That floor is a massive bodge, looks like the Americans have repaired it, no integrity to it in the event of an accident I think it's would fall apart plus you have seat belt mounts close by
S1 4.2 Roadster in Resale Red

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paulsco
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#4

Post by paulsco » Fri Mar 01, 2013 1:07 pm

It is clear to me that the PO has made up new panels and pop riveted them on top of what was left of the old ones.
I think you need to remove them to get a clear picture as to the extent of the necessary repairs. I feel you will have no option other than to completely replace the floors and possibly the inner sills. I imagine the cross member could have some new flanges let into them without problem, but it all looks extensive to me.

Paul

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Mike L
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#5

Post by Mike L » Sat Mar 02, 2013 1:22 am

I have just completed a complete restoration on my 2+2. Having studied your pictures I am of the opionion that you have serious corrosion problems. I would suggest that you enlist the services of someone competant that can give you a proper appraisel of the damage.
Mike Longmead

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jonr
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#6

Post by jonr » Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:51 am

I guess the best solution will be to replace the floors :(

To replace the floors, what needs to be removed? Exhaust? And the IRS?

In order to avoid distortions in the body, it is best to replace the front and rear part of the floor separately to avoid large open areas that weaken the strength of the body?

Have anyone here replaced the floors without having the body in a rotisserie?

Jon

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ChrisC
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#7

Post by ChrisC » Sat Mar 02, 2013 10:37 am

I replaced the floors and infact restored teh whole car with no more than 4 axle stands and a pair of ordinary ramps. A rotisserie is probably fantastic and a whole lot easier to work with though :)

The key is getting the car into a level position on the stands and taking a whole bunch of measurements (side-side / front-back / and diagonals / floor-sill etc) *before* you do any cutting of metal.

Essentially ANYTHING that is in the way has to come off if you do it yourself. I am sure people can work around some items being in place if you know what you are doing though. Your can buy sections of the floor or complete sides. But only do one side at a time.

Somethings that you might not have thought about is that the floor has captured bolts in it for the seats. If the panels are not put back into the right place - your seats will hit either the sill or the centre console. Another critical item is the radius arm mount - that too needs to be in the right position. Just take a lot of measurements and before doing any "commit" welding - measure and re-check that everything is in the right place - then do it again :)

Just dont rush it... if I could do it (with no experience) you can do it :lol:

Undoubtedly my way is slow and there are almost certainly better / faster ways.
1964 FHC 4.2
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk

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Minerva
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#8

Post by Minerva » Fri Mar 08, 2013 11:38 pm

Bertie bodger has been busy!! I replaced the floors on both sides some years ago without a major strip down. But do one part at a time to avoid movement. The usual thing is to cut down the side of the chassis rails leaving the originals in place and not disturbing the cross member.
You can buy complete floor sections and use what you need. You'll have to strip out the terrible repairs first though. I'd be worried that there is a lot more than can be seen and that the sills are shot to blazes.
The rule is also, not rot withing 12 inches of a seat belt mounting.

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