Removal of propeller shaft joints

Technical advice Q&A
User avatar

Topic author
Springer
Posts: 132
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:36 pm
Location: Oslo, Norway
Norway

#1 Removal of propeller shaft joints

Post by Springer » Tue Apr 02, 2013 7:32 pm

I have run into problems to remove the propeller shaft joints. First several springs broke but after some struggling I was able to split them and remove them in part like this:
Image

Having done that it was no big surprise that some gentle kick was not enough to bring the joints apart as stated in the manual. Leaving such parts for 50 years is not without consequences. Hovever, I am not sure how to best apply the force on it and where. Is it by gentle hammering at the ring where the arrow is? Is this some kind of a cap over the bearings?
Image
I haven't found any drawings where the joint is split in parts so I hope to get some advise from you oracles.
Thanks.
Restauration project of a serie 1 1963 model OTS now running proudly

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


tinworm
Posts: 610
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:48 am
Location: devon
Great Britain

#2

Post by tinworm » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:12 pm

Hi Svein do not hammer the yokes ! I know what it says in the manual but the best way to do it is in the vice. First remove the circlips (new ones will come with the new u/js) clean the inside of the yoke around where the circlip seats with emery paper and then lubricate with plus gas or something . With a large socket ( from a socket set) held on to the yoke outer and diametrically opposite hold a smaller socket that will fit inside the yoke - offer up this assembly to the vice (get someone to tighten up the vice for you ) squeeze the vice up and push one cup out into the large socket . Turn the sockets around and push the opposite cup the other way until it comes out. You will have now split the yoke - do the same for the other two and everything will be in pieces . It is good practice to mark the yokes so they go back in the same positions as they come out. If you look inside the cups you will see needle roller bearings be very careful not to displace these when reassembling (if you cannot get the cups to seat in place and cannot get the circlips to fit you have probably misplaced a needle roller). Finally do not reuse a second hand u/j always fit new. If you get this wrong you may have to take the back axle down from the E-type to get the propshaft out again !

regards Barrie
ps did you get to Stoneleigh ?
1968 E-type roadster, 1964 E-type fixed head 1995 Ferrari 355 1980 Ferrari 308 1987 V8 90 Landrover 1988 Bedford rascal van 1943 Ford GPW

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

PeterCrespin
Posts: 4561
Joined: Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:22 pm
Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland.
Contact:
United States of America

#3

Post by PeterCrespin » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:26 pm

Did this at the weekend but the circlips were not as rusted as yours. I no longer have a big enough vice solidly mounted to a bench (it would need to be a big one) but do have a large Churchill fly press. However I didn't use that either and just used a lump hammer and upturned 3/4 drive socket resting on the concrete workshop floor and another snugly inside the yoke eye to drive the cups out from alternative sides as stated. Assuming you have everything solid and correctly lined up it is better to give fewer but very heavy blows that peck at it and move nothing.

Pete
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

Topic author
Springer
Posts: 132
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:36 pm
Location: Oslo, Norway
Norway

#4

Post by Springer » Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:10 am

Thanks guys,
Your advice gave me the kick to buy a larger vice which I had thought of for a long time anyway. I was able to push out all of them but the last one (isn't it allways something?) had to be pushed in again to take of the other side and it didn't like that and made scratches which I need to take off to get it through. But that is managable and for tomorrow.
Thanks again.
Restauration project of a serie 1 1963 model OTS now running proudly

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic