Rebuilding rear hubs

Simonpfhc · Post by **Simonpfhc** » Sat Aug 24, 2013 10:47 am

Hi,

I'm rebuilding the rear hubs on my 62 FHC. I've finished the actual hubs/bearing/end-float part without issue and have now started on the outer fulcrum.

I've fitted the new races which are fully home, and when I do a trial build-up, I find I need about 65 thou in shims between the two sleeves to get the correct pre-load. Everything I've read suggest that I should only need just a few 4 thou shims?? Both of my hubs seem to need this large shimming. I've double-checked that I have all the correct items and nothing seems amiss.

Anyone else experienced this?

Cheers.

Durango2k · Post by **Durango2k** » Sat Aug 24, 2013 7:15 pm

Are you using new tubes ? They may be shorter.

Are the races REALLY fully home ? Both ?

Carsten

Simonpfhc · Post by **Simonpfhc** » Sat Aug 24, 2013 9:37 pm

Hi Carston,

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I'm pretty sure the races are fully home - but I am going to double check anyway. The four tubes are all the originals and there is no sign of wear. I have measured them and they are all identical in length. All I can think of is that the bearings are machined slightly differne to the originals.

Either way, if I can't spot any errors, I am going to need to get two 60 though shims made up :-(

Cheers.

Durango2k · Post by **Durango2k** » Sun Aug 25, 2013 8:58 am

Hi Simon,

I may have - from an XJ6- the long tube which this one uses.

The E-Type has 2 tubes and shims in the middle, the XJ6 has a long tube and shims on the side.

Now, if I send you this tube you could cut of a part by yourself and file and fidle until it is better then 60 thou.

Fit this "home-made spacer" on the OUTside so that still the shims would be between the E-Type originals, and then your?e done.

Only thing is that the cut has to be 90 degrees and accurate as you can, cause else the force would be on a part of the "spacer" and may deform it with time....

Carsten

Simonpfhc · Post by **Simonpfhc** » Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:45 am

Hi Carsten,

That sounds like A good idea - i'll take you up on that offer. PM on it's way.

I would also be interested to see what the length of the XJ6 tube is compared to the pair on the E.

Really appreciate your help :-)

Cheers

Durango2k · Post by **Durango2k** » Sun Aug 25, 2013 10:42 am

As written- mail me your adress + you?ll get that for free.

Carsten

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:54 pm

Simon, are your replacement bearings Timken brand? These are machined very accurately and would normally go together with the same shims on checking. Other brands, especially no-name or Chinese cheapos, not so.

Pete

Durango2k · Post by **Durango2k** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 4:59 am

... just seen it?s a 3.8 in this case:

The INNER LOWER fulcrum tubes (where the 2 needle bearings run on) are different from the 4.2.

Be carefull, buy the correct kit there - no real price difference on ebay.

Carsten

neil4444 · Post by **neil4444** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 7:29 am

Hi Simon,

I rebuilt hubs recently on my 62 OTS and as per your expectations I only put in a few 4 or 7 thou shims. However, I did initially get a bunch of rogue readings from my dial gauge as the way I had mounted the hub carrier & dial gauge in/on the vice to take readings was allowing the carrier to rotate slightly as I raised/lowered it. This threw readings out quite wildly. Once I had prevented rotational movement I was able to get correct readings & I ended up putting pretty much the same shims in as I initially removed. I purchased my bearings kit from Hutsons.

Alternatively, and certainly without meaning to offend, are you sure you're reading the gap the right way and it's not a case that you need to remove rather than add shims ?

Regards,

Neil

Simonpfhc · Post by **Simonpfhc** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 8:11 am

The bearings were sourced from SNG and are not Timken. They are branded J5N and type 03062. This may account for the issue??

When built up, I had to use 70 though of shims between the two spacers to get any movement at all - and then only about 5 thou. This is exactly the same for both hubs. So it looks like I need 64 thou to get the right pre-load.

I am going to double-check everything one evening this week.

Neil - thanks for that tip re rotation. I did notice that the readings on the dial guage varied if the hub made any rotational movement at all. I didn't try to lock that movement, just was very careful when raising the hub :-)

Cheers.

neil4444 · Post by **neil4444** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 8:41 am

I guess it must be just down to the bearings/shells then. Can't see a problem provided tolerances are okay & you can still get it into the wishbone.

Cheers,

Neil

Simonpfhc · Post by **Simonpfhc** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 4:10 pm

Actually, that's a good point Neil - i will test fit the wishbones at the same time to make sure that it will fit OK!

Cheers.

wol916 · Post by **wol916** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:10 pm

I had exactly the same problem with a set of bearings from SNG they are not the same speck as the Timken ones, I got some Timken and everything was fine. I informed SNG to prevent this from happening again and returned the incorrectly supplied bearings. When I called to see if they agreed with my findings they said they had not received the bearings and have obviously not made any changes. All a bit disappointing really this has made me very wary of what I purchase from them anything I can get direct from specialist factors I now do so, takes longer to source the parts but at least there is a goo chance it will fit without modification. :(

Simonpfhc · Post by **Simonpfhc** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:55 pm

For the hub carrier rebuilds, i ordered everything from SNG - all bearings were Timken EXCEPT the outer fulcrum bearings! I may well order a set of Timken for the fulcrums and see what difference they make.

Cheers.

wol916 · Post by **wol916** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 8:06 pm

The inner race sits about 0.4 of a mm further out on the non Timken ones and you can't get the wishbones on only answer is buy Timken. I got them from here http://www.bearing-king.co.uk/products. ... rch=timken good service price OK.

Simonpfhc · Post by **Simonpfhc** » Tue Aug 27, 2013 7:00 am

Thanks Warren, much appreciated.

I will do a dry to check just in case the built up hub carrier can fit inside the wishbone, but I reckon it won't! At which point a set of Timken will be ordered and I will be sending the Jap bearings back to SNG.

Cheers.

Simonpfhc · Post by **Simonpfhc** » Tue Aug 27, 2013 4:59 pm

Just did a test build and indeed the hub carrier with the Jap fulcrum bearings do NOT fit between the lugs on the wishbone. With a bit of force I could probably get them squeezed in, but really too tight - probably by about 60 thou!!

Timken bearings on order and Jap ones being returned to SNG.

Thanks for everyone's help. I will report back when I fit the Timken bearings.

Cheers.

Simonpfhc · Post by **Simonpfhc** » Fri Aug 30, 2013 5:25 pm

OK, so I've now fitted the Timken bearings.......did a dry build and all is now as expected :-)

So the outer fulcrum bearings supplied by SNG are not manufactured to the correct tolorences. Also, i have been calling them Jap bearings - incorrect - they are in fact made in England and are Hoffmann. Either way, they are wrong.

I was quite surprised at the price difference between the SNG supplied bearings (?9) and the Timken bearings (?25), but hey, they fit!

Thanks for everyones input to this issue.

Cheers.

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