Steering Column Bushes

[Candellara]

Has anyone got a write up on changing the steering column bushes?

I've had a nasty "clunk" over potholes for a while which is feeding straight back through the steering wheel.

Although the car passed the MOT no problem, if you grab the upper part of the steering column in the engine bay, you can feel a fair amount of movement in the upper column

Any advice please would be welcomed

[Heuer]

You might find this document of some help: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8496016/LHD%20RHD%205.pdf

Do you have the collapsible steering column?

[Candellara]

I would hazard a guess - yes, as it's an S2 with steering lock. The document recommends not disassembling them? so what's the best course of action?

[Heuer]

On my S1 I changed the Elastollan bushes because I thought there was excessive movement in the column and whilst the replacements made the steering taught it quickly started to bind and squeak as the car heated up causing the inner column to expand. After some research I found it was necessary to use a Dremel sanding wheel to relieve the bearings internal size to allow some movement. So before you go changing anything get the car nice and hot and then check for free play. When the car is cold you should have some lateral and vertical movement of the steering wheel.

[Moeregaard]

If you have access to a lathe, you can turn new bushes from Delrin. I had to do this in the bad old days, when nobody seemed to have the factory items in stock. I turned the outside diameter so that it was an interference fit in the tube, pressed them in, and they were still doing the job when I sold the car years later.

[Moeregaard]

OOPs--I forgot to mention other items worth checking. Clunks from the front end are often traceable to the sleeve that takes the lower damper link. This item often seizes to the 1/2" bolt that ties the two components of the lower wishbone together. What follows is that a rattle will develop between the bolt and the wishbone bits. The sleeve will usually require grinding to remove it from the bolt. When fitting new pieces, lather everything up with copper grease and properly torque everything. The clunk will most likely be a memory.

Another area worth looking into are where the tie rods mate to the steering rack. When replacing the rack boots, check for any free play between these pieces. Normally trouble-free, they will occasionally loosen if not assembled properly with new tab washers. The factory spec calls for the tie rods to be tightened so that a force of 7.0 lbs. (3.18 kg) is required to articulate the tie rod. This can be verified using a spring balance (fish scale).

Yet another source for mystery clunks can be found in a worn rack bush. It's not an expensive piece, but the rack assembly will require removal so that the new bush can be pressed in.