Paint recommendation for components?

[Rafa]

I appear to have fallen victim for the 'Hammerite is not as good as it used to be' scenario. It will not adhere to edges and is easy to scratch with your nail when cured.

I have stripped the black paint and rust off the two brackets which support the moveable rear seat of my 2+2 and merely want to restore them. I applied 2 coats of red oxide primer first and then the expensive Hammerite which is not doing what it say says on the tin!

Searching the internet I have been bamboozled by the large variety of opinions concerning metal paints so I'd be grateful for any tips from people who understand the job in hand more completely.

Many thanks.

[Heuer]

Take them to be powder coated?

[Rafa]

Thanks David, though for time and simplicity I'd just like to brush something on. Preferably simple and effective!

[neil4444]

Hi Rafa,

I've been using Epoxy 121 on my suspension parts.

http://rust.co.uk/products/product/4049 ... xy-mastic/#

It can be brushed or sprayed and when it dries it's really tough. I posted a photo on my 1962 OTS restoration story (see restoration section).

It also came top in a recent Classic Car magazine test (can't remember which one but I think it's on the rust.co.uk site somewhere)

Cheers,

Neil

[Rafa]

Thanks Neil, I'll take a look.

[Heuer]

POR15 from Frost automotive is another option. However I took a small part to our local powder coaters and it was ready next day. ?5 for cash!

[kingzetts]

Powder coating is fantastic - and I now have a home setup which is great fun and much better than painting, I can have a part coated and cooled off ready to fit within an hour, whereas anything painted at home took at least 24 and more often 48 hours to harden enough to use.

However, before this, I found that both POR15 and also the Rustoleum range of spray cans worked well, but was unimpressed with Hammerite. I used to use Hammerite extensively a couple of decades ago and remember it performing a lot better so maybe the formula has changed for the worse as some others have also suggested.

Rustoleum is sold in spray cans in my local Homebase and is basically similar to Hammerite, but I found it had much better edge adhesion and was a lot tougher when dry than Hammerite, and I used it both gloss and satin on quite a few components including the heater box with good results.

POR15 sets hard as rock and I used it a lot on suspension parts in both gloss black and in silver and it has lasted very well so far - but I found it best to treat brushes as disposable rather than try to clean, and to try to accumulate enough parts to use up a whole tin in one go, as resealing a tin part-used is tricky. it can be done, but you will occasionally find that either you can't get the lid off, or that it has set hard in the tin. I have not tried spraying POR15 but it does give quite a good, mark-free finish from a brush and gives reasonable edge adhesion especially if you use 2 coats.

I've recently bought some Epoxy 121 to try and on a first application it looks very good, but I've not had much chance to use it on a variety of parts yet.

[Dave K]

I've found the Chassis black from Frosts is really good not sure if it's made by the POR group. You can buy either paint cans or spray cans.
I've found that using a phospate style rust treatment as an etch primer works well prior to painting.

Dave

[johnney]

POR15 sets hard as rock and I used it a lot on suspension parts in both gloss black and in silver and it has lasted very well so far - but I found it best to treat brushes as disposable rather than try to clean, and to try to accumulate enough parts to use up a whole tin in one go, as resealing a tin part-used is tricky. it can be done, but you will occasionally find that either you can't get the lid off, or that it has set hard in the tin.

After use and refitting the lid, store the can upside down.

[kingzetts]

Yes, that can work, certainly worth a try. The ideal situation is undoubtedly to have enough area to cover to use up a full tin, though - which I guess is why it can readily be bought in small tins of 100ml or so.

[andrewh]

One problem with your hammerite is that you are not meant to prime with other paints. It hates other substances. I have used a hammerite number one rust beater in dark brown in a spray can or tin. Hall fords stock it. I imagine that top coat hammerite will go on top very well. For black I use hall fords satin which gives a superb finish and adheres well. Not had too much experience with powder coating but a few motorbike friends say it chips if you are not careful and can be very thick on machined edges making fitting tricky. Good luck

[SteveG]

I use POR15 for most of my items that need to be black, it is rust preventative and as tough as old boots. The only thing is that it is also UV sensitive and needs a coat of something else over the top. The same company also retail chassis black, which complements the POR15 and will give a finish that if applied properly looks very similar to powder coating. Where powder coating flakes and peels eventually, POR15/chassis black seems to last.
I agree with other posters that the lid can be impossible to remove if paint gets onto the rim and the lid is replaced, this is easily cured by putting a piece of clingfilm across the tin prior to replacing the lid.
Almost anything you buy now is better than Hammerite IMO, certainly not the product it used to be.

[Mike L]

I have used "Chassis saver" in matt finish extensively with excelent results. This product is a knock off of POR 15 but costs less.
There are some precautions to take.
1 Dont pour from the can, ladle it into the mix bowl.
2 Clean any paint from the lip of the can and the lid after use.
3 Cut a piece of saran wrap slightly larger than the lid, place it over the open can and then replace the lid. The saran will form a seal

[Rafa]

Great comprehensive information guys; I feel most informed, many thanks.