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#1 Inlet manifold gasket

Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 7:11 pm
by tim wood
Good evening all, I am refitting my inlet manifold and carbs after overhaul. The gasket that's just arrived is a shiny tin plate affair rather than the normal fibre one. Does anyone have experience of this .

It seems to be pressed so it's tailored to fit one way round, much like a head gasket but much thinner.

I'm happy to wait and revert to the fibre gasket if that is best, but also happy to use this new fangled type.

Car is - 4.2.

Comments very welcome
Thanks
Tim

#2

Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 8:56 pm
by tim wood
Hi all, apologies for bumping this to the top but I'm definitely getting close and could do with some advice.

Thanks

Tim

#3

Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 9:09 pm
by Dave K
Tim,

I've never used the tin type but can't see any reason why it shouldn't work fine. Wipe some Hylomar or similar and then fit as normal.

Dave

#4

Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 9:27 pm
by 1954Etype
it is correct. Make sure you get a perfect seal - if you don't, you can get water seeping through the carb inlets.

#5

Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 9:53 pm
by tim wood
Thanks guys, given that I have just spent a fortune in time and money on this I don't want to risk any water ingress. I'm familiar with the fibre type and am going to use that.

Anyone want a tin manifold gasket ?


Tim

#6

Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 8:38 am
by tinworm
Hello Tim, the gasket sets cover several models , and I have noticed that some contain an inlet manifold gasket that appears to be made of the same composite material that the exhaust gaskets use - they also contain the thick paper type as an alternative . The paper type is the right one for the E type. I cannot think of a model which would use the composite type as this will not contain the coolant .

regards Barrie

#7

Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 1:03 pm
by 1954Etype
The factory used the tin ones on the S2s I have taken apart. I have only used the tin ones on all my S1 4.2s and haven't seen a paper one (doesn't mean they don't exist tjough!)

#8

Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 2:08 pm
by PeterCrespin
1954Etype wrote:The factory used the tin ones on the S2s I have taken apart. I have only used the tin ones on all my S1 4.2s and haven't seen a paper one (doesn't mean they don't exist tjough!)
Agree. There is no such thing as an inlet manifold gasket made of the same stuff as the exhausts, although there is a fibre option on late XJs. Tin is correct and with sealant is fine. I wouldn't re-use one though, as the dimples will already be compressed but a new one should be fine on clean surfaces with a little gasket dressing.

#9

Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 3:20 pm
by tim wood
Um, now I have started a good debate. Maybe I will go with the tin and some wellseal. The tin one seems as though by virtue of the fact that it is pressed with ridges on one side it should be fitted the correct way round.

Any more thoughts.

Thanks to all

Tim

#10

Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 10:49 am
by tinworm
Hi Tim , just noticed your original post has 'car is - a 4.2' on the bottom which I somehow managed to miss ! The other respondents have given you the correct info luckily.
I wanted though, to alert people with 3.8 litre cars (which do use gasket paper on the head to manifold joint ) that there are sets currently available in the UK which have two sets of ( 3 ) intake gaskets provided , one set of which is made of the same sandwich ( three layer paper and convoluted aluminium ) material as the exhaust - and as I said before these cannot be used on the intake as coolant will soak through them in short order, and the whole job will have to be done again. If the inclusion of these with the set ( which also contains the correct ones) is not to fit some obscure military type or some such , then it must be a mistake by the manufacturer. If anyone else has had a set like this - and I have seen two - perhaps they could add to this post ?It will tell us if this is a rare event or not at least.

regards Barrie

#11 Update

Posted: Sat Mar 08, 2014 6:14 pm
by tim wood
Well I used the tin plate gasket and on running today I noticed the first signs of water beading on the manifold and around the join with the head. This was perfect before and I was especially careful when fitting with the recommended dose of sealant.

Hindsight is great and no doubt I should have stayed with the original fibre type. So I'm looking forward to removing the carbs again. It gives me a reason to visit stoneleigh next weekend. I was hesitating on this but now I have a reason to go !
On the upside the carb rebuild seems to have solved my poor starting although the price of the parts (and I needed most of them) made my eyes water.
What hasn't got any better us the return to idle and the springs don't seem to have enough pull. More thinking needed.

Tim

#12 Re: Update

Posted: Sat Mar 08, 2014 11:25 pm
by abowie
tim wood wrote: What hasn't got any better us the return to idle and the springs don't seem to have enough pull. More thinking needed.

Tim
Check that they're the right springs.

You can bend the spring mounting brackets for more force if you need.

Check that the pedal linkages on the firewall and the pedal itself aren't contributing to resistance. do you have a return spring fitted to the pedal itself?

#13

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 4:37 pm
by andrewh
tinworm wrote:Hi Tim , just noticed your original post has 'car is - a 4.2' on the bottom which I somehow managed to miss ! The other respondents have given you the correct info luckily.
I wanted though, to alert people with 3.8 litre cars (which do use gasket paper on the head to manifold joint ) that there are sets currently available in the UK which have two sets of ( 3 ) intake gaskets provided , one set of which is made of the same sandwich ( three layer paper and convoluted aluminium ) material as the exhaust - and as I said before these cannot be used on the intake as coolant will soak through them in short order, and the whole job will have to be done again. If the inclusion of these with the set ( which also contains the correct ones) is not to fit some obscure military type or some such , then it must be a mistake by the manufacturer. If anyone else has had a set like this - and I have seen two - perhaps they could add to this post ?It will tell us if this is a rare event or not at least.

you have me worried now! I took off tin inlet gaskets off my 3.8 when I stripped it and the new SNG gasket kit has a composite gasket. Only the three though. Is this what most people fit? Cannot see why this would leak to be honest. Can you please clarify which ones you believe are a problem BEFORE I fit the inlets? I was going to seal with Wellseal and thought all would be well. The tin gaskets are only supplied by Payen as part of a kit, which I did not buy as I bought it from SNG. They have never heard of the inlet gaskets causing any problems. thanks andrew
regards Barrie

#14

Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 7:39 am
by Simonpfhc
Hi Andrew,

How did you get on with fitting the composite inlet manaifold gaskets? I ask as I have the same kit from SNG that only includes inlet manifold gaskets made from the same composite matetial as the exhaust gaskets.

I'm about to fit them so keen to hear your experience.....

Cheers.

#15

Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 9:38 am
by mgcjag
Hi Simon....there was a post here very recently where someone had coolant leaking into the carbs through this gasket....will try to find and link it.. Steve

#16

Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 10:04 am
by mgcjag

#17

Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 6:18 pm
by andrewh
Simonpfhc wrote:Hi Andrew,

How did you get on with fitting the composite inlet manaifold gaskets? I ask as I have the same kit from SNG that only includes inlet manifold gaskets made from the same composite matetial as the exhaust gaskets.

I'm about to fit them so keen to hear your experience.....

Cheers.
In all fairness I cannot recall the gaskets I used in the end as it was quite sometime ago. All seems well, although I did Notice a small amount of corrosion developing along the joint. I imagine this is the result of some weeping but snapped up the manifold bolts again and put this down to bedding in issues. I will check again next time I have the bonnet open, but the E is not using any water.

#18

Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 6:27 pm
by David Oslo
Gosh, I wonder what I should use. I'm just about to pop the manifold back on and use the 'gasket material' gasket (e.g. not a composite sandwich) that I got in the kit from SNG, and had a look at the old gasket (low mileage car from Dec '66) and I would describe it as tin plate (e.g. single thickness, thin metal sheet, double folded around the openings).

Thin hard 'tin' vs soft thicker material....

#19

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 12:22 pm
by frogeater
Hello,
Last november, I had the same leaking problem, just filling the radiator : look like the Niagara falls but I wasn't with Marilyn Monroe, and just alone in my garage.

I'am with a 4,2 and pass from stromberg to triple SU's...
First, my cylinder head didn't leak with the Stromberg, and the manifold is from a good source. : so it's my entire fault :oops:
Second: I'm a totally beginner in that matter. :wink:

I used the uprated gasket c41247 from sng, with nuts and spring washers but without any sealant like blue hylomar. After a first try, I'v made a second one, after having tightened little more, but with the same result.

Two questions, so:
- I read and reread this post but it's not clear for me, if I should use the c41247 or the c41247* gasket (Barrat references)?
- Do I have to put blue hylomar I have in stock (or other one sealant?) on the cylinder head face and/or also on the manifold face?
Thank you in advance.
Emmanuel.

#20

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 12:40 pm
by mgcjag
Hi Emmanuell.....either gasket should be ok....are both surface nice and smooth, manifold and engine.....use thin smear of sealer on all mating surfaces...my preference is Well seal.....