The 'E' Type Forum

Does anyone know of any specialist who replaces the bulkhead heater pipes?

captain wrote:Does anyone know of any specialist who replaces the bulkhead heater pipes?

Yup. Whichever one is left holding the parcel when the music stops

If there's a leak, plus you only drive in summer and you're not ready for a large bill/massive attack of Shipwright's Disease, you might want to consider draining the heater and capping the feed nipple at the back of the manifold....

Pete

Having just helped a friend replace the pipes in his series 1 with repro pipes (from the major parts supplier) which of course do not fit I think the designer of the system should go to hell and have to replace these thing sfor eternity.

I suggested to the owner to use rubber heater hose on the engine side of the firewall but he would not have any of it.

An awful job - I am glad I don't have that issue on series 3s .

Garry

Garry,

It's a character building job. Tackle that job and there is nothing you can't achieve :D

Dave

While it's an irritating job, it's not impossible. Most of the difficulty revolves around poor access.

Important points:
Get a couple of GOOD torches; the magnetic LED ones are useful and headlight is even better.
You need an assistant with small hands; my 12yo son was perfect.

Take your time and be prepared to do it over a couple of sessions to minimise the effects of frustration.

Take the dash crash pad off (4 nuts, not too hard).
Clear away as much as possible from the centre access hole behind the drop down section of the dash.
Consider removing the wiper rack. Consider removing the glove box; actually not too hard. Consider removing the windscreen if you really find yourself in trouble ( I know, I know).

Before you try to fit a pipe, ALWAYS check to see if it fits by putting the 2 ends into the appropriate holes in the firewall. Compare to to the pipe that came out at the same spot.Stainless pipes don't rust but are harder to bend.

If you are having a lot of trouble you can use a wire to guide the pipe ends into the holes. The wire needs to be about 3 or 4 feet long and stiff enough to guide the pipe end but flexible enough to go up through the pipe without jamming. Poke the wire into the correct hole from the engine bay side and run it out your centre access hole. Make sure the path it takes through the inside of the dash will allow the pipe through. Slide the wire into the pipe and then use the wire to guide the pipe into the hole.

Only put in one rivet per end until you've got all the pipes in. You may have to remove a pipe; I did.

The rivet holes on my repro pipes were way out so it would be worth trial fitting the pipes including the bulkhead flange/discs to make sure you can get all three rivets through, squarely to the bulkhead.

If you also have the vacuum pipes running within the bulkhead then I think you'll need to remove them to in order to remove the lower heater pipe. In which case, when you're refitting, the lower heater pipe needs to be fully fitted before installing the vacuum pipes.

I would thread bungee rope through the pipe and then once in place you can tie it off which will keep the pipes tightly in place while you re drill the holes and put the pop rivets in.

Dave

Wow, and I thought doing the wiper rack was hard on my S3, thats even worse.

I have just replaced mine S2 OTS got them from Terrysjag , fitted perfectly,
Not an easy job . Good luck !!!!

Had a quote for this job - spectacular: ?3700.
Spurred me on and I'm waiting for the stainless pipes from Terrysjag now. Cheaper than mild steel set from UK! Got the old ones out and "refitted" to sort out a procedure. Don't have time to wait to get a 12yo son, so had to take the pain - it is only pain after all.
Good chance to tidy up bulkhead paint too - silver lining and all that......

Another great source for bits is www.jagbits.com

Captain, did you receive the pipes from Terry's?