conrod nuts

Technical advice Q&A

Topic author
hirstydg
Posts: 19
Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 9:08 am
Location: Belfast

#1 conrod nuts

Post by hirstydg » Tue Sep 23, 2014 11:30 am

Hi All

Engine of my 3.8 FHC was recently rebuild and reassembled using the original big end bolts and castellated nuts with new split pins. The sump is off again (don't ask) and so I have the opportunity to replace bolts and/or nuts with upgrades. I spoke to Rob Beere (extremely helpful) about this and following his advice I am inclined to reuse the original bolts, but replace the nuts with the later XJ 6 type from SNG. These have no split pin so no risk of broken pieces ending up in the oil pump, however, should I use Locklite during assembly. Any opinions on all this most welcome.

Many thanks

David
Life in the fast lane

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Quattrofrank
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#2

Post by Quattrofrank » Tue Sep 23, 2014 12:01 pm

I dont see the reason in doing this, just use some torque grease and torque them to correct tourqe and thay will be fine.

Its is not common practice to use locktite on internal engine parts.

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abowie
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#3

Post by abowie » Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:53 pm

I'm quite surprised at Rob Beere's advice.

These bolts are subjected to a great deal of force, are cheap to buy and destroy your engine if they fail.

In a situation where there was no choice but to reuse them checking them with a stretch gauge would be mandatory but personally I can see no good argument for reusing them ever.

The modern nuts are set and forget and do not require Locktite.

I stripped an engine once where Locktite had been used on the main cap (not big end) bolts. It took a 4ft bar and every ounce of strength I could muster to undo them.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia

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Durango2k
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#4

Post by Durango2k » Wed Sep 24, 2014 4:58 am

The problem imho that the Bolt part where the hole For the Pin Is maybe thinner, so the "clamping" area of the nut won't clamp as we'll as it Would on a solid Bolt.

I did go the same way Rob Beere suggested, after Talking to a Horch Specialist. He said use a toothbrush and brake cleaner, then Blue Loctite and torque to spec.

Carsten

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hirstydg
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#5

Post by hirstydg » Wed Sep 24, 2014 7:17 am

Thanks everyone. Mixed opinions so still undecided.

David
Life in the fast lane

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Moeregaard
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#6

Post by Moeregaard » Wed Sep 24, 2014 4:31 pm

When I did the first rebuild of my very early 4.2, back in 1983, I reused the original rod bolts with the castellated nuts. I was in college at the time, didn't have a pot to pi** in or a window to throw it out of, so I cut costs where I could. I had no failures over the next eight years, but every time I changed the oil I would find bits of cotter pin inside the canister. Chris Harvey mentions this in his book "E-Type: End of an Era."

In 1991, when I had the funds to do a proper home restoration, I pulled the engine down and found more cotter pin bits in the sump, and the oil-pump lobes were seriously knackered. I spoke with a well known Jaguar restorer here in the U.S., and he recommended replacing the castellated nuts with the later items. I asked what, if any, thread-locker he recommended and the answer was blue Loctite. I did this and had no problems. Things may have changed over the last 20 years, so I would do some asking around, but I can highly recommend NOT using the castellated big-end nuts.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036

Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....

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Topic author
hirstydg
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Location: Belfast

#7

Post by hirstydg » Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:02 am

Thanks for that Moe. I have heard of similar experiences from other XK owners. I'm going for the later type of nut and will add Locktite on the basis that it can't do any harm.

David
Life in the fast lane

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