The 'E' Type Forum

I've started playing around with my new car, trying to get it up and running after it's near 10 year layup and whilst I do have it running I have a couple of issues/question please.

1. The clutch isn't disengaging, when the pedal is pressed the slave cylinder seems ok and is pushing the arm into the bell housing and an inch or so but it isn't opening the clutch. Anyone know how much movement there should be on the slave cylinder? If the clutch is seized, any tips on freeing it up? I did turn the car over in first with the clutch down and it jumped forward.

2. The o/s downpipe on the exhaust is split so needs a new one, I have taken the system off and then undid the 8 bolts holding the downpipe to the manifold but it doesn't seem to want to budge, what is the best way of getting it out please?

3. Fuel pump - the car is running but not awfully well, it doesn't want to rev up and I suspected the fuel supply. I think only one side of the pump is pumping as I disconnected the wire on one end and there was no clicking noise, I then reconnected the wire and disconnected the other one and it started clicking. Does this sound like I have a fault on the pump and would this result in low fuel pressure/flow which would cause problems?

Cheers

Dear Anon,

1/ I think the sticking clutch has been covered on this forum before, so check the archives;

2/ The downpipe is connected to the twin exhaust manifolds only a pair of crush washers, so slightly less gentle persuasion with heat and penetrant ought to work. If the downpipe is split due to an impact, you'll need to check that the exhaust manifolds themselves are not cracked. You ought to be able to see black carbon deposits if it has blown by. Removal of the entire assembly would entail stripping the top of that side of the engine and taking out the studs as there is next to zero clearance to do the job in situ. It is usually a blessing that a broken exhaust manifold comes off in pieces.

If replacing exhaust manifolds, be aware that the earlier castings had thinner mounting flanges than the later cars and that the repro parts now available;

3/ The twin SU fuel pump on the v12 iws just that - two independent pumps:- diagnose accordingly.

kind regards
Marek

The seized clutch is nice and easy to sort out by a method called thermal cycling. I do this just about every year with my Lotus Elan...they are very prone to this problem for some reason.

Basically, start the car up and keep it running until it is very hot (and the fans will be running). Pump the clutch up and down quite a few times when it's hot and running. If you are very lucky, this alone will free it.

Otherwise, let it all cool down (overnight) and do it again the next day, only this time with BOTH rear wheels jacked up. Again, let it warm right up, and when hot, ease it into 2nd with the clutch down, rev the engine and hit the brakes (still with the clutch down). After a few goes at that, it will free off.

Trouble is, if the engine won't rev, you can't do this! You may be lucky and have just the warm up / cool down cycles free it all off, otherwise you will need to get it running.

I would suspect the carburetors of being gummed up through lack of use if it's not revving up, unless of course you have rebuilt them. I've had mine rebuilt twice in 18 years, and they are still prone to being a bit 'fluffy' for the first 30 or so miles after the winter layup.

Thank you for the advice I'll try it and let you know how I get on.

Cheers Richard