The 'E' Type Forum

I'm attempting to start the engine for the first time this weekend. After sorting out a few fuel leaks, first I've tried to get some oil flowing around using the starter motor with the plugs out. Before it's started with the ignition/plugs connected.

I expected it might take some time to get it properly primed with oil. Should it be possible to get near to a normal oil pressure just on the starter motor?

A JEC oil pressure gauge has been fitted which only gets to about 18-20. I've tested the sender with a known pressure source and the gauge reads correctly, although with a bit of a lag.

Is this pressure sufficient to be safe to start the engine and once started should build to a more normal pressure?

Thanks,
Chris

You won't get "normal" oil pressure just running on the starter motor, but you will get lubrication to the areas that need it. Keep in mind that all cars start on zero oil pressure every time the key is turned. As long as you see some movement on the gauge while running on the starter, you'll be fine. Once it starts, let it run at 1,000--1,200 RPM to properly wet all the seals.

Dear Chris,

You can use a garden insecticide sprayer filled with oil using a standard airline as a coupling to get oil into the galleries prior to first startup by connecting at the oil pressure sender. Once the oil fiter cannister and overflow are all fully primed, it'll take very little to get full oil pressure on the starter motor with a new rebuild.

kind regards
Marek

If you have new camshafts and/or new tappets it's generally recommended to run the engine at a steady 2000 rpm for 20 minutes.

Thanks all for your responses. After a few precautionary checks, I tried starting it and to our amazement it started the first time. The first time it has run in 18 years!!



Although it leads to my next issue. I ran it at around the 2000 rpm as suggested. However when the engine was switched off, about 3 pints of coolant gushed out of the expansion tank overflow.

My assumption is that there must be airlocks in the system. When the engine is running the water pump is providing pressure to compress the air. Once it's up to operating temperature and the engine is stopped, without the pressure of the water pump, the air must be expanding ejecting the coolant. It was run with the heater valve open to fill the whole system.

Does my assumption sound correct and is there a technique to remove airlocks? After refilling I tried it again but with the same results.

Chris

Let it get up to temperature with the heater on. The expansion tank will 'burp' out what it doesn't need if you over fill it. When the fluid has come out, run it again keeping an eye on the temp and check the fan comes on.

It's looking & sounding good Chris. I'll be asking these same questions in a years time !

Cheers,

Neil