The 'E' Type Forum

I'm looking to source some new/used wire wheels for my car to replace the badly rusted ones currently on it but I'm getting a little confused :? .
I believe series 1 cars had curly hub and series 2 had flat hub type wheels, what does this mean and does anyone have any pictures to explain the difference If viewing, just a wheel can you identify the difference

The tyres on my car are 205/70 SR 15s', hence 15 inch rims but how do I find if they are 5J or 6J (I assume the number is the width of the rim, what does the J mean )

Thanks in advance for any help,
Duncan. :?

I was following spome on ebay early this week Ill find the thread.

Might be an for another thread.

THings of interest on ebay....

Seems they sold

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :IT&ih=006

?102.00 for the set :D not bad when there about 180 notes each I think

Car-Nut,
Thank you for your direction, I had seen these but the surface rust comment put me off a bit. Also I was actually looking for the advice regarding curly/flat hub etc.

Regards,
Duncan.

Hi the difference between curly and flat hub wire wheels is the shape of the centre hub. The internal splines are obviously all the same but the outer shape is different. It is difficult to explain but the curly hub has an obvious "s" profile or shape to it, whereas the flat hub is as the name suggests a flat profile (sometimes known as easy clean wheels)
If you send me an email i will reply with some photos which may help.
Regarding tyre sizes 205 is the width of the tyre, 70 is the profile or the height of the side wall SR is the speed rating (which is actually too low for an E-Type, should be HR or VR given the choice) and 15 is the diameter.
These sizes are metric, which most tyres are nowadays. The old 5J and 6J sizes are the width in good old imperial sizes (inches)

Kind regards
Andy (A J Autocraft) info@ajautocraft.co.uk

Gents,

You can upload pictures to this site if you have them uploaded to a site already for eg photobucket.

If people dont know how to do it I would be happy to put some destructions up later.

hello

it woudl be nice indeed if you could create a new post in the general section with instructions on how to upload pictures to this site .
thanks for your help

best regards

Couple of things here.

Firstly have a look at the MWS website (they advertise in the mag) they have great pictures and specs.

The next thing is that in the great scheme of things wheels are rather critical to your safety, handling. Is it worth saving a few pounds/dollars replacing existing wheels with those of an unknown history? I'm sure there's lots of good sets available via the various auction sites but I'd rather put my trust in a new set - some things are simply worth the expense.

John

Hi Duncan,

One good source of WW information is Dayton Wire Wheel http://www.daytonwirewheels.com/index.htm
or
British Wire Wheel http://www.britishwirewheel.com/

Over the years, I have purchased 3 sets of WW's for my E-Type

1. Dayton 15x6 HD SS spokes std lace
2. MWS 15x6.5 Center lace HD SS spokes
3. Dayton 15x7 Center lace Alloy rim HD SS spokes (on car now)

All three sets where for tubeless tires

The Dayton's were truer and didn't leak

What I've learned from the WW wheel experts:

Stay away from chromed spokes ... they're brittle and tend to brake.

Polished alloy rims w/SS spokes look great and don't rust

205/70 SR 15s s/b on a 6" wide rim

Never try to tighten spokes on a tubless (sealed) rim

From personal experience, I've found:

Center laced 6" rims with 205/70 SR 15s have enough offset to not cause clearance problems in the rear.

Center laced wheels provide for better handling (wider track)

Std laced 6" rims with 205/70 SR 15s will impact the bump-stops, and possibly the bump-stop mounts

With that said; fitment will vary from car-to-car.

Hope this help.,

Cheers,

All,
As an update I sourced a set of wheels from ebay and now have them fitted. They cost me ?100 the set, the seller made a mistake as had not set a reserve price, hence the bargain, or so I think but I'll let you make up your own mind up.

Old Wheel:


New Wheel:

Shaguar,

You need to recopy those links again....

Center laced 6" rims with 205/70 SR 15s have enough offset to not cause clearance problems in the rear.

Center laced wheels provide for better handling (wider track)



The center laced rims are the way I'm going too. 6" 5", not shure yet.
How would a spare fit in the trunk. Is there enough room for a wider tyer on a series1? Any experiance with these.

My two cents, rechroming definitly weakens metal. The #1 reason you nickle plate the front suspension rather than chrome. Chrome covers stress cracks.

Only wheel that will fit in the wheel well is the 5" wire. The wider ones won't allow you to put the boards back in!

David

I can't get the images to display :x

I've reduced their size again, moved them to a different folder on the server :x

If you cut and paste the link to the browser they display :?

Any help would be welcome

Some words of warning:

My car is currently with CMC for service work and they found all four MWS 6" competition SS wheels to have loose spokes - indeed almost every outer spoke! The wheels are eight years old, have done 18,000 miles and will have to go back to MWS to have them reset. Worth checking the spokes regularly as it is easy to tighten up the odd one but once they all start to come undone it is a factory re-refurbishment job.

When did you last run a spanner of yours?

David

I find that a bit of rust stops them coming loose. It's certainly worked on mine but then I'm not putting so much power through them.

Andy