The 'E' Type Forum

Doors for my roadster were trial fitted with all rubbers prior to painting. Before final fitting I shaved most of the rubber thickness of the Sill and C' post rubbers to reduce their profile. Now with doors on and good gaps all round they fit badly with the trailing edge sticking out way past the line of the sill. In desperation I have removed the C' post rubber completely, but with NO better result, so a new one will need to be fitted. Wisdom is that they will close better when the car is used, however does anyone have any tricks that can be applied to NEW door rubbers to get a better fit and are some suppliers rubber seals better eg Baines

Any help from anyone who has successfully done this would be appreciated.

Have you got the bottom seal fitted thr right way round?

lyons wrote: Before final fitting I shaved most of the rubber thickness of the Sill and C' post rubbers to reduce their profile. Now with doors on and good gaps all round they fit badly with the trailing edge sticking out way past the line of the sill.

In desperation I have removed the C' post rubber completely, but with NO better result, so a new one will need to be fitted.

C post? On an OTS? Sounds like all your seals are/were wrong or probably back to front or wrongly fitted. Trimming on the sill and B post is only nevessary for length, if at all.

Photos?

For C' post read B'post. Seals are correct from SNG. However I do notice that when the new inner and outer sills have been welded on the "LAND" that holds the seals is shallower than that on other untouched E type shell hence the need to trim the back of the rubber to fit. Problem is the B'post which is holding the rear outer edge out from the curve of the body. Looks terrible.

Angus - what would you do to correct ?

Can you post photos? You might have the b post seal round the wrong way.

Angus,
Have another original car on site with seals still in place so they are the right way round. Have you had this problem before and can it be fixed by adjusting the door hinge positions to bring the rear of the door more in line with body. Many E types seen at classic car shows seem to have this problem so it is not unique, but it destroys the line of the car with the doors closed. Assume that Eagle / EtypeUK etc would not sell a car like this so HOW do they do it?

You will find the seals from Baines are probably the best for fit, density and elasticity. I have just had new Baines door seals fitted and they replaced the worn ones without need for cutting or door adjustment. As regards the door fit (sticking out rear bottom edges) problem I believe there is a fix which involves strapping a piece of wood to the door and levering it into place. CMC did it on my OTS drivers door when the car was in for service and they explained the process. As this was on a painted body-shell I was mightily impressed but I was not there to witness how they did it and never questioned them further. Obviously there is a knack to it and you will need to do a fair bit of research before attempting it. Let us know if you do learn how to do it.

I can help here...

Its not really the rubbers although you DO have to shave them down. its the way the door skin is fitted to the frame. If you bought a complete door (like I did) you no longer have the ability to twist the door frame with the skin lightly attached so that all the door edges are perfect. As Heuer says a fix is to force the door into shape using a block of wood but be VERY careful otherwise you can dent the outside skin. Be aware that you are fighting all the welds between the skin and the door frame! so do not expect it to be easy.

to be honest - I ended up repeatedly adjusting the door at the hinge to get the best gaps and you trade the top gap (near the windscreen) for the back door bottom one. You can get pretty close though.

David, can I ask who fitted the rubbers for you, I think I will also try to get them to fit mine.
Thanks,
Dave

Ken Verity supplied the rubbers and fitted them - while I waited! No cutting or shaping involved and the doors close perfectly.

Stop it you are making me jealous - i spent weeks sanding the rubbers down...

Hi David,
Please can you provide some data regarding Ken Verity for us (me) uneducated.
Many thanks

RogerM wrote:Hi David,
Please can you provide some data regarding Ken Verity for us (me) uneducated.
Many thanks

Series 1 Spares in Rotherham 01709838352.
Very helpful and knowledgeable - if you go to Stoneleigh he always has a busy stall.
Joe

Hello,
Looking for a little help...
Im trying to order the A post seals (LH & RH) for my 3.8 FHC from Baines, and they've replied saying they have parts numbered JDS 14 & 15 as BD 25789 & BD 25798 respectively.

However according to the Jaguar E type parts manual, the RHS A post seal is BD 18559 and the LHS is BD 18560. Strangely on a separate page they are also numbered as BD 25308 and 25309, (both sets for Fixed head coupe). Baines say they don't have any knowledge of these numbers.

Has anyone ordered from Baines directly, and if so is it ok to just describe the seals as 'A post seals'

Thanks for any advice.
Regards, I-Wen Foo

Here's an update..
Basically Baines are saying they do not have seals for the A post. I've sent them a picture from the spare parts catalogue showing the part required - no luck there.
Has anone had better luck ordering from them?
Best regards,
I-Wen

Hi,

I ordered a full pair of door sets from them just a few weeks back, no problem.

JDS11 RH door a-post
JDS12 LH door a-post
JDS13 Door sill seal
JDS14 RH door b-post
JDS15 LH door b-post

All seem to fit perfectly and just like all seals from Baines, are lovely and soft :-)

Cheers,

Hi Simon,
that is brilliant thanks very much!!
Basically the sales person at Baines was quoting me for JDS 14 & 15, which as it turns out is the B post seal... :( Not quite what I wanted obviously.

Will get onto them again.
Best regards,
I-Wen

Hi Folks
Google Baines and look on their website. There is a catalogue that can be downloaded and it has a section on Jaguar door seals etc.
Roger

lyons wrote:Doors for my roadster were trial fitted with all rubbers prior to painting. Before final fitting I shaved most of the rubber thickness of the Sill and C' post rubbers to reduce their profile. Now with doors on and good gaps all round they fit badly with the trailing edge sticking out way past the line of the sill. In desperation I have removed the C' post rubber completely, but with NO better result, so a new one will need to be fitted. Wisdom is that they will close better when the car is used, however does anyone have any tricks that can be applied to NEW door rubbers to get a better fit and are some suppliers rubber seals better eg Baines

Any help from anyone who has successfully done this would be appreciated.

Hi, this maybe of use if you have fitted new inner or outer sills or door skins or any combination of these. They can be fitted and all looks perfect before fitting the sill rubber and the chrome strip. After these are fitted the door will not close properly and will stick out especially at the rear edge. This is caused by the small drain channels on the bottom of the door compressing the rubber and touching the chrome strip. These drains are pop riveted to the door frame. Try drilling out the pop rivets and removing these drains then closing the door. If the door now closes ok you will need to either get the chrome strip to sit further in or reduce the width of the drains before re-fitting with new rivets. A and B pillar rubbers should not need to be shaved.

Before I start applying the contact adhesive in anger, could someone tell me if I've got the B-post and sill rubbers correct and whether it's advisable/necessary to trim the sill before fitting the rubbers.

The B-post rubbers are from COH Baines but were delivered together. So I'm not sure which was JDS14 and JDS15 and might have them on the wrong sides. The one on the left looks correct, with the channel facing rearward:



The only reason doubt started creeping in was another restoration photo where the channel appears to be forward, with the slightly longer side of the channel to the rear. But it doesn't look right to me:



I also read somewhere on the forum that the sill rubber on the S2 had the longer side uppermost (unlike the S1). Does the fitting below look right? Hence the question about needing to fit the interior sill trim first as it would be difficult to clip the chrome trim on with the rubber in place.



Finally, the A-post:

i) does anyone know why retainer strips were used on the A-post? As far as I can see there are just riveted in place and then the rubber seal glued over the top. So I can't understand why the lip wasn't just incorporated in the other panels.
ii) is the top of the A-post rubber simply cut level with the bottom of the chrome A-post cap?

Thanks,
Chris