Jacking & Engine (Motor) Mounts

Technical advice Q&A
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johnben
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#1 Jacking & Engine (Motor) Mounts

Post by johnben » Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:25 pm

I finally turned my attention to the engine mounts as they were looking a bit tatty and sad, before starting I searched through the various ?E? Type forums and found some helpful information. At this point I feel duty bound to make a confession, in the past I have jacked up the E Type using a trolley jack plus wood underneath the sump before inserting axle stands etc (gasp from the reader) I just never realized what was happening when I done this and after reading that a couple of people had died through jacking accidents involving E Types over the years it seemed the safe thing to do. It was only when I started to undo the bolts to the mounts that I realized the jack was supporting the engine weight and the rest of the car was hanging by the mounts! No wonder the inside of one of the mounts was pulled out. I am sure the last person in the World to have realized this is myself, but I include it for what it is worth.
Replacing the mounts was one of the easier jobs I have done on the car, I thought I would tackle the most difficult side (re access) first, which is the driver?s side on my RHD. I also jacked this side up to gain more easy access to the bolts, I then placed the jack plus wood under the sump and jacked it to take the pressure off the mount. It is then relatively easy to undo all the bolts and remove the old mounting. The fixture attached to the engine frame has a slot rather than a hole so take note if you clean the fixture where the bolt and washer was. When inserting the new mount you may have to jack the engine up a little more to accommodate the extra thickness of the new mount. Put in the three bolts loosely and tighten the nuts on the two small bolts. Drop the engine gently down to compress the mount and then tighten the central nut. I found with the passenger side there is ample access to the mounting and I just needed to take the weight of the mounting with the jack under the sump to replace it.
Another job done and another lesson learnt.
Though SNG advertise 4 different engine mounts, when I phoned they only had the sports ones and the reproductions. I did not want a harder ride than I already have in the car so I purchased the reproduction mounts, which were only about ?8 each. Though I would have preferred original or heavy duty, it?s such an easy job I would be quite happy to replace these mounts in a couple of year?s if I need to.

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christopher storey
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#2

Post by christopher storey » Sat Feb 14, 2009 8:46 am

JohnBen : may I just offer a word of advice. If yours is a 4.2 there needs to be a spacer under the carburetter side engine mount, which is often missing. If it is missing, the base of the carbs/linkage tends to "chatter" against the frame

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Moeregaard
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#3

Post by Moeregaard » Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:45 am

When the carb linkage fouls the subframe it can also mean that the rubber bobbin in the transmission mount has failed and gone away. Unsuspecting mechanics will then tighten the rear engine stabilizer, occasionally to the point that it starts to pull its mount off of the firewall. This may also be accompanied by clutch chatter, as the entire drivetrain is free to wiggle around.

Early in my E-Type "career" I had the carb linkages foul the frame as I was giving it the boot in second gear, and found myself with more throttle than I bargained for. There's nothing like running out of road and ideas at the same time.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036

Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....

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1954Etype
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#4

Post by 1954Etype » Sun Feb 15, 2009 10:11 am

Moeregaard wrote:When the carb linkage fouls the subframe it can also mean that the rubber bobbin in the transmission mount has failed and gone away. Unsuspecting mechanics will then tighten the rear engine stabilizer, occasionally to the point that it starts to pull its mount off of the firewall. This may also be accompanied by clutch chatter, as the entire drivetrain is free to wiggle around.

Early in my E-Type "career" I had the carb linkages foul the frame as I was giving it the boot in second gear, and found myself with more throttle than I bargained for. There's nothing like running out of road and ideas at the same time.
Done that! When flooring the throttle, the engine cranked over onto the carb linkage side which caused the linkage to bind against the engine frame. Luckily when you lifted your foot, it moved back and released the linkage. Scary. I fitted the Rob Beere engine mounts as some of the 'orignal' mountings turned out to be Mk 2 rear bumper mountings - much softer. Don't forget to ensure your engine is sitting level when you fit the new mountings (looking at the car from the front or back).

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Moeregaard
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#5

Post by Moeregaard » Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:29 pm

When it happened to me, lifting off the throttle had no effect, so there I was with two feet flat on the floor and going like hell! Turning off the ignition put a stop to that adventure, but I hate to think what that would have been like in a car with a locking steering column.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036

Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....

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