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#1 Series One indicator stalk
Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 4:11 pm
by paulsco
Has anybody replaced the Series One indicator stalk?
I bought a chrome stalk at Stoneleigh as the chrome was flaking off my existing one, but the stalk in the casting seems very tight and I don?t want to break it.
Is it just an interference fit, threaded or glued?
Thanks,
Paul
#2
Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 6:22 pm
by Durango2k
You have to cut of the old One, and then drill the remains out of the body.
Then re-glue the new One in.
Carsten
#3
Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 7:59 pm
by abowie
On mine the end is knurled and just pushed into the die cast metal at the base and the plastic knob at the top.
#4
Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 8:14 pm
by 1954Etype
You dont need to cut the old one out. I heated the area where it is pushed in with boiling water and pulled it out (it is splined). I would re-chrome the original as some of the repros dont have the splines and they are required!
#5
Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 11:22 pm
by abowie
1954Etype wrote: (it is splined).
Correct; not knurled as I said.
I disassembled the diecast piece from the rest of the mechanism before removing it.
#6
Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 12:19 pm
by paulsco
Thank you all for your help.
The stalk I have does not have a splined end, in fact it is about an inch too long after the bend. I bought it from Richard Smith?s stall who usually sells quality items and from what you have said I am quite surprised that it does not have the required splines or the correct length for fitting.
I am reluctant to risk damaging the diecast piece, especially as the stalk is not suitable without remanufacturing the end. This is not a concourse restoration; I think for now I will remove the rest of the chrome, polish it up and put some clear coat on it.
I am constantly being disappointed by replacement parts.
Thanks again,
Paul
#7
Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 5:04 pm
by 1954Etype
Send it back to him. You are making the right choice in not removing it if you arent sure.
#8
Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 8:07 am
by tinworm
I have fitted these successfully - the problem being that you cannot re-chrome the original without damaging the moulded tip. Richard Smiths arm will go nicely into the socket with araldite after roughening the end - making sure you have it at the right angle. No one else makes a replacement and your only other action is to buy a complete new switch or find an original arm in good condition.
I dont think its a big deal.
regards Barrie
#9
Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 8:55 am
by 1954Etype
I have had the opposite experience to Barries. The end needs to be splined as during use, there is a significant turning force at the end where it is fitted into the switch.
The plastic comes off after soaking in boiling water.