Twin Stromberg ->Triple SU conversion questions

Technical advice Q&A

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Vegard
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#1 Twin Stromberg ->Triple SU conversion questions

Post by Vegard » Tue Mar 03, 2015 7:57 am

I'm in the middle of doing such a conversion and I've got a couple of questions.

1. I've got the carbs, but I think I'll need to have them rebuild.
Who could do this for me in the UK? I know Burlen can, but I must admit I was hoping someone could do it a tad cheaper ;)

2. Concerning the air filter. Is the air filter "box" ( the triangular thingy) the same on the twin carbed and three carbed models, the only difference being the plate against the carb face?

I know, strange question, but someone might understand? :)


https://jaguarxke.files.wordpress.com/2 ... nt-016.jpg

Is it just a matter of changing the bottom right part in the picture above?

Cheers
68 1.5 FHC, 65 4.2 FHC, 72 MGB GT, 6 Minis, 71 Escort1300GT, 65 BMW Neue Klasse, 62 Volvo P1800 and a 205 GTI

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#2

Post by Vegard » Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:30 am

Just found this.

http://www.sngbarratt.com/RelatedItemDe ... a1af70067b

So the question is:

Is this the same on twin and triple carbed E-types?
68 1.5 FHC, 65 4.2 FHC, 72 MGB GT, 6 Minis, 71 Escort1300GT, 65 BMW Neue Klasse, 62 Volvo P1800 and a 205 GTI

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mgcjag
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#3

Post by mgcjag » Tue Mar 03, 2015 9:08 am

Hi Vgard....Try David Lonsdale, classic carbs......Cirencester. 07786 912011.... quite a few on this forum have used him, he does a fantastic job, re the filtes intake i think that the studs for the wingnuts are set further apart on a su system......Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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#4

Post by mgcjag » Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:05 am

Just to add to the above, if u are trying to save a bit u could rebuild the SUs yourself, I went to a demo where Daved Lonsdale was rebuilding a set...after chatting to him he told me to have a go myself, and with a call to him he would talk through any problems...rebuild kits with instructions are available from Burlans, the only awkward bit is if there is any play in the shaft a special reamer tool is required and a re sleave, fortunatly mine were ok.....the rebuild was very easy and on refitting the carbs the car fired up straight away and ran really great....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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#5

Post by frogeater » Tue Mar 03, 2015 11:05 am

Hello Vegard,
I bought a complete set from David Lonsdale and I'm very satisfied with the set, and contact with David.
If you follow the advice of Mgcjag, I would councel you this book, cheap and complete, with a lot of pictures useful even if wtritten in French.

http://autotech.gazoline.net/index.php? ... &id_lang=5
Emmanuel

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#6

Post by jrevel » Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:15 pm

Word of warning too, keep away from Burlen, I had a set of carbs re-built by them a year ago and they have to be one of the worst companies I have dealt wit. I seven week job turned into a four month job with now feedback, updates or customer service in general.

Ive heard good things about southern carbs but not used them

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#7

Post by Vegard » Wed Mar 18, 2015 1:06 pm

I've decided to rebuild the carbs myself. I had fantastic help form SBG Barratt on the telephon ehelping me out on parts.

To be honest, I don't think this price is too bad:

http://www.sngbarratt.com/ProductDetail ... a092b6042c

Now, this along with the cable conversion should be just what's needed to make the cat purr properly.

:)
68 1.5 FHC, 65 4.2 FHC, 72 MGB GT, 6 Minis, 71 Escort1300GT, 65 BMW Neue Klasse, 62 Volvo P1800 and a 205 GTI

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#8

Post by mgcjag » Wed Mar 18, 2015 1:22 pm

Hi Vegard......a tip for when u rebuild....get 3 old shoe boxes and when u strip each carb use a seperate box to keep all the bits from each.....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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#9

Post by abowie » Wed Mar 18, 2015 8:46 pm

The only complex bit of rebuilding the carbs is replacing the throttle shaft bushes. These need to be reamed out to the correct size within fairly closr tolerances. This is one job that it might be worth farming out to a carb place. If you do give them the throttle stops too so that they can drill the shafts for you.
Otherwise this is a fun job and very rewarding. My only other advice would be to take a lot of pictures of the assembled carbs, on the manifold, before you disassemble them. You will find this vital for reassembly. Steve's advice about the shoe boxes is also very sound.
Getting the float height, slow running screws, choke screws and mixture setting right is easy; it's all in the book. Using a vernier caliper to set jet heights all exactly the same is a good idea.
Finding the right spanner to centre the jets is a pest; it's 3/8 Whitworth. I found that an 18mm ring spanner works perfectly; you will understand when you try to do this.
Save yourself some trouble and replace all 3 floats as well. These leak. New nitrophyl ones are the best solution.
Final tip is to make sure that the freeplay in all 3 throttle actuating arms is the same.
Have fun!
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB. 1979 MGB.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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#10

Post by Vegard » Sun Mar 22, 2015 7:27 pm

Thanks guys, all great advice. The shoe box tip was great. Unfortunately, it all ended up in the same giant cardboard box :lol:

The axle bushes do infact seem very tight. If lucky, it will be sufficient to change just the spindle axle. Hopefully. My experience on the HS style tells me that the axles wear more than the bushes.
68 1.5 FHC, 65 4.2 FHC, 72 MGB GT, 6 Minis, 71 Escort1300GT, 65 BMW Neue Klasse, 62 Volvo P1800 and a 205 GTI

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#11

Post by Vegard » Tue May 26, 2015 7:00 am

I've now had everything soda blasted, and the carbs do really look like new.

So....What should I do with the bare aluminium? Is there anything I can do to make them look like this for more than three weeks? We all know that bare aluminium attracts grease like a fish to water.
68 1.5 FHC, 65 4.2 FHC, 72 MGB GT, 6 Minis, 71 Escort1300GT, 65 BMW Neue Klasse, 62 Volvo P1800 and a 205 GTI

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#12

Post by skiday » Thu May 28, 2015 7:22 pm

Yes there is.

http://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-silver- ... rosol.html

Frost have a specific paint for every job you can think of and then some! I used this on my carbs that I rebuilt myself three years ago and they still look great. Obviously you don't have the Frost catalog, so get a copy asap.

Re rebuilding the carbs, providing they are or were working, just methodically strip them down and TAKE PHOTOS at EVERY stage so you know how to put them together again. Then when the car is back together get an expert to tune them up.
Andrew Day. Former owner of S1A 4.2 2+2. Current cars; Aston Martin DBS 1968, Ferrari F355 & Fiat Coupe 20vt. Flag of choice; EU

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#13

Post by mgcjag » Thu May 28, 2015 7:40 pm

Hi Andrew just looked up the product on the frost site.....is it a clear coating, or is it silver coloured, cant quite make out from there explanation...Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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#14

Post by skiday » Thu May 28, 2015 11:48 pm

It is silver, but not a silver like you might see a silver car painted, it's more like you would expect a carb to look like. Or you can have it in bronze(!)

Here they are before;

http://s292.photobucket.com/user/Skiday ... ort=6&o=92

and here they are after;

http://s292.photobucket.com/user/Skiday ... rt=6&o=206

You can see my entire restoration if it is of interest here;

http://s292.photobucket.com/user/Skiday ... t=6&page=1

Andrew
Andrew Day. Former owner of S1A 4.2 2+2. Current cars; Aston Martin DBS 1968, Ferrari F355 & Fiat Coupe 20vt. Flag of choice; EU

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