Well, the rebuild of the srs 2 FHC has reached that most critical of stages - what colour to paint it!
I'd like to use Imperial Maroon, but can't find a valid paint code. either original or a modern equivalent.
Or did Jaguar change the name of that shade for later cars? I gather that shade was current on 61-62 cars.
Can anyone help?
Please note - I don't mean the opalescent Imperial Maroon, which is much too dark for what I want.
Many thanks
Chris Pollard
Paint codes - Imperial Maroon
#2
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2026 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2026 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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#3
Hi Chris,
Is the Imperial Maroon colour you're after a flat or metallic one?
From the lists David linked to it suggests that Imperial Maroon and Opalescent Maroon may have been available at the same time on early cars ('61-'62) but Imperial Maroon was dropped for '63. They also introduced Opalescent Light Maroon for '65-'66.
I believe my car is Opalescent Maroon but am not completely sure as I haven't met an absolute authority on these colours yet.
I've seen several metallic cars described as Regency Red which is much later colour and most definitely a flat (non metallic) colour.
Cheers
Mark
Is the Imperial Maroon colour you're after a flat or metallic one?
From the lists David linked to it suggests that Imperial Maroon and Opalescent Maroon may have been available at the same time on early cars ('61-'62) but Imperial Maroon was dropped for '63. They also introduced Opalescent Light Maroon for '65-'66.
I believe my car is Opalescent Maroon but am not completely sure as I haven't met an absolute authority on these colours yet.
I've seen several metallic cars described as Regency Red which is much later colour and most definitely a flat (non metallic) colour.
Cheers
Mark
1969 S2 FHC (Opalescent Maroon) 1R26120
"The older I get, the faster I was"
"The older I get, the faster I was"
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#4
Mark - do you have a JDHT certificate for your car and if so what does it state?markc555 wrote: I believe my car is Opalescent Maroon but am not completely sure as I haven't met an absolute authority on these colours yet.
Mark
Mine is a 63 and the certificate gives the colour as Opalescent Maroon.
Joe
1963 3.8 OTS
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#5
Hi Joe, yes I do. However it shows the original colour as Willow Green.
The car was completely restored in 2006 long before my ownership and there no definitive proof of the colour selected. I love it but just don't know for sure what it is :)
The colour can look quite different, much darker, when the suns not out! Here're a couple of pics...
Cheers
Mark
The car was completely restored in 2006 long before my ownership and there no definitive proof of the colour selected. I love it but just don't know for sure what it is :)
The colour can look quite different, much darker, when the suns not out! Here're a couple of pics...
Cheers
Mark
1969 S2 FHC (Opalescent Maroon) 1R26120
"The older I get, the faster I was"
"The older I get, the faster I was"
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#6
Well it looks nice but it's not Willow Green 
Although I've never had to do it I believe that paint mixing suppliers can analyse the paint to get an exact match for a new batch.
If you take off the fuel filler flap they can check the underside which won't have faded.
Joe
Although I've never had to do it I believe that paint mixing suppliers can analyse the paint to get an exact match for a new batch.
If you take off the fuel filler flap they can check the underside which won't have faded.
Joe
1963 3.8 OTS
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#7
Sorry Chris, I didn't mean to hijack your thread but you'd said Opalescent Maroon was "too dark" and I was interested in how Imperial Maroon compared to Opalescent Maroon.
Another colour that seems get confused with the above is Claret which is I believe a flat (non metallic) colour and darker than all of reds and maroons mentioned so far.
Cheers
Mark
Another colour that seems get confused with the above is Claret which is I believe a flat (non metallic) colour and darker than all of reds and maroons mentioned so far.
Cheers
Mark
1969 S2 FHC (Opalescent Maroon) 1R26120
"The older I get, the faster I was"
"The older I get, the faster I was"
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#8
Thanks, chaps. It's been a bit of a voyage!
We tried all sorts of samples, and just today settled on opalescent maroon. Although I originally thought it would be too dark, in (on) the metal it is a lot lighter, especially in sunlight. It seems to change shade according to the ambient light levels, and the light source. Perhaps predictably, it is completely different under fluorescent or low-energy light (which are the same thing).
The paint code we ended up with is JAG 307, which corresponds to 1YYNB in the ICI list.
Originally, I thought a metallic would be too blingy (whatever that means...) but as it turns out, it picks up and scatters the light in a very satisfying way. The aluminium (excuse Brit spelling!) content is very fine--grained, so the metallic nature isn?t immediately apparent. I think it is going to accentuate the curves of the car rather well, especially over the rear wheel arches.
Now on to rebuilding the rear axle...
We tried all sorts of samples, and just today settled on opalescent maroon. Although I originally thought it would be too dark, in (on) the metal it is a lot lighter, especially in sunlight. It seems to change shade according to the ambient light levels, and the light source. Perhaps predictably, it is completely different under fluorescent or low-energy light (which are the same thing).
The paint code we ended up with is JAG 307, which corresponds to 1YYNB in the ICI list.
Originally, I thought a metallic would be too blingy (whatever that means...) but as it turns out, it picks up and scatters the light in a very satisfying way. The aluminium (excuse Brit spelling!) content is very fine--grained, so the metallic nature isn?t immediately apparent. I think it is going to accentuate the curves of the car rather well, especially over the rear wheel arches.
Now on to rebuilding the rear axle...
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#9
Incidentally, Mark, I notice that your car (which looks identical to mine, or, at least, as I hope mine will end up!) is still in full US spec. How do you get on with that in the UK?
I pondered on doing the conversion during the restoration, but decided to stick with the current spec, partly to keep the to-do list under control, partly to keep the costs sensible, partly because I do plan to tour in Europe, and partly because I like originality.
Do you still have the US spec Zenith carbs and the lower ratio rear axle? Any comments?
I pondered on doing the conversion during the restoration, but decided to stick with the current spec, partly to keep the to-do list under control, partly to keep the costs sensible, partly because I do plan to tour in Europe, and partly because I like originality.
Do you still have the US spec Zenith carbs and the lower ratio rear axle? Any comments?
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#10
Hi Chris, good to know the correct paint code for my car although the chances of it being identical 10 yrs after its application are probably slim.
I actually sought out a US spec car because I wanted A/C, the factory version of which was only fitted to these models. The evaporator unit is shaped such that it only fits under a LHD dash. I've had the compressor replaced with a more efficient modern version and I get lots of lovely cold air from it :) Like you the plan is to use the car for summer, probably european, touring and previous experience with old closed coupes/saloons is that they can be ovens in the summer requiring all the windows open which is not conducive to high speed (motorway) miles of which there are bound to be plenty. I've owned LHD cars before and while they can occasionally be a pain in the UK I don't find it a big problem. For those euro tours it's a plus point.
The 3.54:1 diff ratio isn't ideal! The gearing is almost perfect until you hit the motorway/dual carriageway at which point it really needs another gear. There's lots of advice and opinions on this site and after weighing up the pros and cons (and costs) my plan is to fit a 5spd 'box. This will let me keep the existing 4 nicely stacked ratios for town and B roads but have an extra overdriven ratio for those fast(er) motorway stretches. You can't have your cake and eat it so lowering (or is it raising?) the diff ratio will monkey with the all the intermediate gears dulling acceleration in all of them in exchange for the more relaxed cruising gait.
I've no direct long term comparison with a triple SU equipped car but mine runs and pulls just fine on the Stranglebergs. Mechanically the engines are identical (including cams) so until the carbs run out of ability to deliver fuel they should make similar power. The duplex inlet manifold is unecessarily complicated and dulls response but there's a fix for that (http://forums.jag-lovers.org/av.php?1546928n14). If the factory are to be believed the SU car makes 19 more gross horsepowers which equates to 15 modern ones. Either way its a 7% difference which while not to be sneezed at is hardly night and day.
I have now removed the US spec side marker lamps, I've just plugged the fixing holes with small grommets for now, which I think looks much better.
Cheers
Mark
I actually sought out a US spec car because I wanted A/C, the factory version of which was only fitted to these models. The evaporator unit is shaped such that it only fits under a LHD dash. I've had the compressor replaced with a more efficient modern version and I get lots of lovely cold air from it :) Like you the plan is to use the car for summer, probably european, touring and previous experience with old closed coupes/saloons is that they can be ovens in the summer requiring all the windows open which is not conducive to high speed (motorway) miles of which there are bound to be plenty. I've owned LHD cars before and while they can occasionally be a pain in the UK I don't find it a big problem. For those euro tours it's a plus point.
The 3.54:1 diff ratio isn't ideal! The gearing is almost perfect until you hit the motorway/dual carriageway at which point it really needs another gear. There's lots of advice and opinions on this site and after weighing up the pros and cons (and costs) my plan is to fit a 5spd 'box. This will let me keep the existing 4 nicely stacked ratios for town and B roads but have an extra overdriven ratio for those fast(er) motorway stretches. You can't have your cake and eat it so lowering (or is it raising?) the diff ratio will monkey with the all the intermediate gears dulling acceleration in all of them in exchange for the more relaxed cruising gait.
I've no direct long term comparison with a triple SU equipped car but mine runs and pulls just fine on the Stranglebergs. Mechanically the engines are identical (including cams) so until the carbs run out of ability to deliver fuel they should make similar power. The duplex inlet manifold is unecessarily complicated and dulls response but there's a fix for that (http://forums.jag-lovers.org/av.php?1546928n14). If the factory are to be believed the SU car makes 19 more gross horsepowers which equates to 15 modern ones. Either way its a 7% difference which while not to be sneezed at is hardly night and day.
I have now removed the US spec side marker lamps, I've just plugged the fixing holes with small grommets for now, which I think looks much better.
Cheers
Mark
1969 S2 FHC (Opalescent Maroon) 1R26120
"The older I get, the faster I was"
"The older I get, the faster I was"
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#11
Hi Mark
Many thanks for all of the info, and for the very quick response.
I'm now looking at a test panel for the paint - actually one of the underbonnet closing panels behind the headlamp, as I wanted something with a curve in it - and the colour really works. I?m looking forward to seeing the whole car in that shade.
I'm not a big fan of Stranglebergs, but I do think they get a worse press than they deserve. Ed Biddle at EB engineering, who knows a thing or two about such things, reckons that the problems usually result from people thinking they know better than the factory and taking them apart, thus losing all the temperature calibration setting of the bimetallic strip in the side housing. The factory used to set them up in a temperature controlled environment, I'm told.
I followed the link re the manifold - many thanks for that - and it really does seem quite simple and logical. The manifold is currently off the car (in my back bedroom, actually...) and while it's not a thing of beauty, it does look pretty straightforward to remove the secondary butterflies and blank off the holes. That torturous low speed bypass really is a horrible thing, and putting all that extra hardware in the mixture stream can?t help even at higher revs. If our friends across the pond are to be believed, that simple mod should get back several of the missing bhp, which is good enough for me.
The diff ratio is a vexatious question, but I suspect I'm going to have to stick with the 3.54, reluctantly. At least the acceleration should then see off the Max Power brigade! It would be nice to fit a 3.09 (or even a 3.31) but the crownwheel and pinions aren?t exactly thick on the ground.
Cheers
Chris
Many thanks for all of the info, and for the very quick response.
I'm now looking at a test panel for the paint - actually one of the underbonnet closing panels behind the headlamp, as I wanted something with a curve in it - and the colour really works. I?m looking forward to seeing the whole car in that shade.
I'm not a big fan of Stranglebergs, but I do think they get a worse press than they deserve. Ed Biddle at EB engineering, who knows a thing or two about such things, reckons that the problems usually result from people thinking they know better than the factory and taking them apart, thus losing all the temperature calibration setting of the bimetallic strip in the side housing. The factory used to set them up in a temperature controlled environment, I'm told.
I followed the link re the manifold - many thanks for that - and it really does seem quite simple and logical. The manifold is currently off the car (in my back bedroom, actually...) and while it's not a thing of beauty, it does look pretty straightforward to remove the secondary butterflies and blank off the holes. That torturous low speed bypass really is a horrible thing, and putting all that extra hardware in the mixture stream can?t help even at higher revs. If our friends across the pond are to be believed, that simple mod should get back several of the missing bhp, which is good enough for me.
The diff ratio is a vexatious question, but I suspect I'm going to have to stick with the 3.54, reluctantly. At least the acceleration should then see off the Max Power brigade! It would be nice to fit a 3.09 (or even a 3.31) but the crownwheel and pinions aren?t exactly thick on the ground.
Cheers
Chris
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#12 Claret is a late XK150 colour
It is a single stage paint and was very rare on the XKs. It is very dark. I am not sure about the difference between Maroon and Imperial maroon. Both have a tinge too much blue in my very personal view.
3.54 is an excellent choice when a 5 speed box (with OD on 5th) is used.
3.54 is an excellent choice when a 5 speed box (with OD on 5th) is used.
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