Shaking / vibrating engine

Quattrofrank · Post by **Quattrofrank** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 6:08 am

Hi

I have a problem with my series 2 e type. Recently purchased the car and trying to sort out errors. The problem is a heavy vibration around 2000rpm and upwards. Changed out the two engine mounts in front, both were collapsed and it did do some difference, however it didn't quite fix the problem. The vibration comes regardless of speed/gear and it stops if I press the clutch. The vibration is stronger under acceleration than under cruising or going downhill on the gears. This makes me believe that there is something wrong with the alignment of engine or something making the engine / gearbox rub into body. Have anyone experience similar issue? First I thought it was a bad balanced prop shaft, but if that was the case would it then be vibration free once i press the clutch? The prop shaft is then still moving...

Post by **1954Etype** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 6:33 am

Look at the gearbox mounts and engine stabiliser on the bulkhead. If the front mounts were gone, pretty sure the others will have perished as well. You will need to check the stabiliser on the bulkhead to make sure it is adjusted properly. Failing that, could be loose bolts or failing ujs on propshaft.

Quattrofrank · Post by **Quattrofrank** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 6:56 am

Thank you for response.

I will check that, I loosened the rear stabiliser bar when fitting new enigine mounts. The rubber seems fine, but I guess it wont do any damage fitting a new one just to be sure.
Is there any procedure for adjustment of it? When fitting new engine mounts, all I did was to undo the three bolts on top to be able to raise the engine.

Post by **1954Etype** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 7:19 am

Adjustment is in the user manual or knowledge base on this forum. Getting it right is critical.

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 7:25 am

You may have some part of the exhaust system just touching the body when torque is applied . Check the clearances very carefully throughout the entire run of the exhaust . People, for instance, often fit the centre boxes upside down by mistake !

Quattrofrank · Post by **Quattrofrank** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 8:12 am

Hi

I couldnt find the adjustment procedure for the stabilizer bar in the workshop manual. I found one reference in the engine chapter but it only mention the importance of adjusting properly... where is this procedure found? The exhaust is probably touching as well, I had a look under the car after receiving it and the exhaust was a poor build. I have a classicfab exhaust in order, hopefully this will sort i out. I will also change all the bushings on the car, but this is a winter project. Is there any other things woth checking? Could bad bushing on irs or trailing arms cause this? the shaking is as mentioned only when either accelerating or deacceralting so I guess its connected to some sort of movement of either engine/gearbox or propshaft / rear axle

Post by **Heuer** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 12:15 pm

Moeregaard · Post by **Moeregaard** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 12:39 pm

While you're poking around under the car, have a look at the rear gearbox mount. The rubber bobbin that resides within the spring, as well as the two rubber spring seats, may have perished and are allowing contact between the alignment pin and the mounting plate. The condition of these components is critical, because failure here will place additional loads on the engine stabilizer, and in some cases cause cracking of the welds securing the stabilizer bracket to the firewall. The rear mount needs to be in top condition for proper adjustment of the stabilizer. Since your front mounts were gone, I suspect the rubber bits in the rear mount are toast as well.

Post by **Heuer** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 1:04 pm

Indeed - the rubber mounts can be come saturated in oil which will quickly lead to their deterioration:

Post by **1954Etype** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 2:15 pm

Moeregaard wrote:While you're poking around under the car, have a look at the rear gearbox mount. The rubber bobbin that resides within the spring, as well as the two rubber spring seats, may have perished and are allowing contact between the alignment pin and the mounting plate. The condition of these components is critical, because failure here will place additional loads on the engine stabilizer, and in some cases cause cracking of the welds securing the stabilizer bracket to the firewall. The rear mount needs to be in top condition for proper adjustment of the stabilizer. Since your front mounts were gone, I suspect the rubber bits in the rear mount are toast as well.

Didnt I say that?

Moeregaard · Post by **Moeregaard** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 3:52 pm

In my defense, it was 5:00 AM and the first cup of coffee was yet to be, so I guess I didn't read the entire threa--my bad. Seriously, I wanted to emphasize the importance of not over-tightening the stabilizer to compensate for worn or missing rubber bits in the rear mount.

Post by **Heuer** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 3:53 pm

And because this is an S2 Moe rightly pointed out there is a big spring instead of the bobbins used pre 1963.

Post by **1954Etype** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 4:41 pm

Oh all right then. (I was only joshing you Moe). :D

Moeregaard · Post by **Moeregaard** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 4:50 pm

1954Etype wrote:Oh all right then. (I was only joshing you Moe). :D

No offense taken! My entire thought process doesn't really come up to speed until that first cup!

Quattrofrank · Post by **Quattrofrank** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 4:55 pm

I did check that stabilizer bar and indeed it was a bit loose. After tighting this, some of the vibration were gone so there is something fishy with the gearbox mount. I placed an order for all the parts. Didnt realize that there is a difference between series 1 and 2 so I will have some parts left.

Hopefully this will cure the problem...
thanks for the help :)

Moeregaard · Post by **Moeregaard** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 5:27 pm

Failure of the rubber seats and bobbin down below will often lead to clutch judder as well. Hope this solves your vibration problem.

chrisvine · Post by **chrisvine** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 5:54 pm

Has the PO added a split pin by mistake to the pin going through the gearbox mount?

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sat Jul 05, 2014 10:59 am

Yeah but David showed the 3.8 mounts for extra confusion on a 69 so he gets the star prize. :-)

I can't work out whether we're talking about engine vibration above 2K as a misfire or mechanical damage, versus some kind of looseness/misalignment. I had assumed the former but everyone seems to be talking about the latter so I'd better shut up. Smells, noises, sounds, vibrations - all tricky to diagnose remotely. My bet would be on the gearbox spring rubber bobbin except for the over 2000 rpm bit. Acceleration/deceleration fit.

Pete

Quattrofrank · Post by **Quattrofrank** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 8:51 am

I am sure that thee is no misfire causing the vibration. It is some sort of misalignment causing it.
Hopefully this will be solved with new mounts + exhaust.

Post by **mgcjag** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 9:38 am

Hi Frank.....have u looked ar the prop and drive shaft/joints...Steve

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