SIII front wheel bearing replacement

PeterE · Post by **PeterE** » Wed May 13, 2015 3:38 pm

For some time I have had what I believe to be a rumbling/moaning wheel bearing on the front of my SIII; it got progressively louder last year and is even more noticeable now. Changing from P4000s to Dunlop SPs last year made no difference so not down to tyre tread pattern and coasting with the engine off on a smooth surface (difficult to find in Surrey) pinpoints it to the front.

Spinning the n/s front wheel (the one that gets all the Surrey potholes!) today off the ground makes a slight 'graunching' noise which increases with rotation speed, the o/s wheel is silent by comparison so I'm pretty sure that the n/s inner and/or outer bearing is on the way out and I've ordered a Timken kit from SNGB.

Any tips on the replacement process? The ROM seems to indicate that its quite straight forward and I have a hub puller.

There is no discernible end float on either wheel (no play in the ball joints either...) so I'm wondering if they've been over-tightened before.

As point of interest, if I had ignored this and apart from the unseemly noise, how long before I would have been in deep trouble?

Many thanks.

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Wed May 13, 2015 3:57 pm

No hub puller needed - it comes off in your hand when you undo the nut. Probably the inner race is dud on the larger bearing. It will either need prying off the stub axle (PITA but good news) or it will pull off with your fingers (easy but bad news).

Use bearing fit to secure the inner race if it slides on easily. Pray nobody has centre-punched the stub axle to try and snug the inner race up. Pack the new bearings with grease throughly and use a decent split pin, not a tiny one made of chewing gum.

If I could predict the future life of your bearing I would be far too rich to bother with forums - I'd pay for everything to be done by others, from my lottery and stock market winnings.

Pete

PeterE · Post by **PeterE** » Sat May 16, 2015 5:05 pm

Pete, many thanks, helpful advice, no nasties uncovered and apart from the shot bearings, hub and stub axle are in good nick. Also thanks to Marek who offline reminded me of the best way to get the end float right without a dial gauge (tighten right up, back off, hand tighten and back one castellation before inserting split pin). There is now just discernible end float which there wasn't before and the inner race had clearly been overheating with very little grease left.

The taper seats were a PITA to get out as I don't have a press, however, gentle application of heat to the outside of hub and the laws of physics meant they popped out easily with a drift.

Anyway short test drive just now and the bearing noise has gone; a short test drive because to my extreme irritation I cannot find my reel of lock wire for the caliper bolts. I was tempted to use 18SWG Multicore solder instead but thought better of it, it does however make better split pins than chewing gum

.

The question now is, bearing in mind that the other hub is probably too tight, do I leave it well alone, dismantle and repack resetting the end float or fit new bearings to that one too?

Thanks,

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sat May 16, 2015 8:05 pm

Nothing as fancy as a dial gauge has ever kissed a front hub on any Jag of mine. Slight discernible play at the wheel is your measure. Maybe a millimetre or two at the rim. If the other one has no play then yes, go in there. If play is OK give it a shot or two of grease on the nipple.

JagWaugh · Post by **JagWaugh** » Sun May 17, 2015 8:38 am

Peter,
Have a look in a local craft/Hobby shop. You can get soft stainless wire for picture hanging in suitable sizes for safety wire - I even found a set of safety wire twisting pliers in a local craft shop, for about 1/3 of what they cost from a tool shop.

Solder does NOT make a good cotter pin replacement... Solid copper wire from 220v installation cable OTOH does.

Andrew

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sun May 17, 2015 10:29 pm

"Solder does NOT make a good cotter pin replacement... Solid copper wire from 220v installation cable OTOH does."

I think he was joking. It only came up because he couldn't find his liquorice shoelaces. Next thing you'll be claiming you've never used fruchtgummi schlangen as cable ties in Switzerland!

PeterE · Post by **PeterE** » Sun May 17, 2015 10:40 pm

Yes, I was joking as a riposte to Pete's suggestion of chewing gum for split/cotter pin manufacture (hence the lol emoticon

).

Alas, No liquorice shoelaces but I may be able to find an old bootlace tie if that will do?

JagWaugh · Post by **JagWaugh** » Mon May 18, 2015 3:57 am

Ach so... I am reminded dass I have lived too long in a German speaking world...

Saturday afternoon I was seriously considering trying melted jellybabies to seal the shift rods at the back of a David Brown transmission.... anybody know of a spray on O-Ring product?

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