Fulcrum shaft locking pin

[Quattrofrank]

Hi

I purchased a set of new upper wishbone fulcrum shafts from Classic Jaguar.
They looked nice but I was finding the outer diameter on the pins for the bushings to be incorrect/incosistent and decided to scrap them.
So I purchased a set of adjustable fulcrum shafts from SNG.
They look nice but they dont have a hole for the locking pin securing the castle nuts.

Should I return them, get the hole drilled or just use nyloc nuts?
could this be a error from the machine shop?

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f139/ ... 182122.jpg

[David Oslo]

Argh! You give us so many choices. Me, if I was you, I would drill them.

Returning is so much hassle and cost and waiting and arguements. That's my opinion at least. Generally I only return things if they are expensive & surplus, or incorrectly ordered / sent, e.g. when the "business case" makes sense. Things like this I just fix myself. Job done, case closed. Move on.

You didn't offer the fourth option, to use Loctite (either normal og strong) :D

[Quattrofrank]

Thanks for input, I guess we are in the same boat with regards to returning items. Its just to damn expensive to send it back in addition to trying to get the VAT refunded etc..

I`m with you, best to get theese bastards drilled. So now I need to find someone who does this around the oslo area. Any ideas?

[mgcjag]

Hi Guys...its not unusual on a shaft that uses castlated nuts not to be drilled....this allow,s u to do the nut up to its desired torque drill the hole and put in the split pin...thus getting it in the perfect position.. Steve

[Quattrofrank]

Thats a good tips, didnt think of that.
But is there any specific torque on theese nuts?
What is done then is to tighten the nut and then drill the hole while its assembled? It is a good chance that the hole will not be 100% vertically on the shaft

[mgcjag]

Hi Frank.....have a look at the maual re removal and refitting the front suspension...if u dont have one they are in the knowledge base section......as far as im aware there is no torque setting for these nuts.but dont fully tighten them or drill them untill u have set up your camber and castor angles and let the whole weight of the car settle on the suspension....the mauual page J7 details this....then drill to fit the pin...it dosent have to be vertical, any position will do.....do it with confidance and u will be ok.....Steve

[Quattrofrank]

ok so I tried to drill hole for the lock pins today.
It seems like the shafts are stainless or hardened in some way and my dril bits didnt bite.
Does anyone know the thread size on the shafts? The best option for me would be to buy nylon lock nuts and replace the castle nuts.

[PeterCrespin]

Does anyone know the thread size on the shafts? The best option for me would be to buy nylon lock nuts and replace the castle nuts.

Drill and lockwire the nuts. These are competition parts.

[Quattrofrank]

So nyloc nuts are not good enough?
What about the rear wishbones, they are all nylon locked not wire/split pin locked.

If there is a genuine concern about using nyloc nut I will listen, but I`m being practical and is not concerned about orginality.
I would prefer avoiding the risk of drilling holes that is weakening the shaft. Also they are in an akward position and the risk of not beeing able to centre the hole correctly is high.

[PeterCrespin]

Nyloc would be iffy-to-OK IMO. I was merely saying if the lack of a hole bothered you, drill the nut not the shaft. My D-type eccentrics aren't pre-drilled either and they are not SNGB - nor are they stainless. I wouldn't especially want stainless for high-stress spindles like that, depending on grade. Yours may not be ss?

I'll go for split pins when the D is complete. I'll mark the spot and then put a tiny flat on and a good centre punch to start the hole with a high-quality new bit. Then I'll do the same at 90 degrees.

If yours really are stainless it'll be hard to drill without getting a work-hardened skin. You can only really avoid that by getting the right pressure and cut. That'll need something like the technique described above.

[vee12eman]

Hi,
If normal drills aren't biting then possibly you have cheap drills more suited to wood than metal, it's not uncommon. Otherwise, if you do have good drills but still can't get them to bite, try Cobalt drills, BUT, use goggles and go carefully and with the drill at reduced and consistent speed, also keep it straight. Cobalt drills are more brittle than normal and will shatter if abused. The same is true of any drill and goggles should always be used (even a full facemask in addition to the goggles, which is a good idea anyway).

I spent years as an aircraft engineering technician and used cobalt drills often, frequently to drill Titanium (horrible job!). I never saw one shatter, but beware. I have seen normal drills shatter and they are bad enough, so treat them all with respect.

As to the idea of drilling and getting the hole straight, yes, many of the bolts I fiited came without the spilt pin hole drilled - there can be a certain skill to drilling them, doing it with the nut installed is one way, but with the units assembled, this can be difficult. To ensure square and centred drilling, a drill press and careful set up is the way to go if you are uncertain, but certainly something within the capacity of a decent mechanic/home restorer.

Just my ten cents worth.

Simon