The 'E' Type Forum

I have this on 2 of my E-types. On one car the gas pedal won?t go all the way back unless I put my toes behind it and pull it towards me. This means that the idle stays at about 1500 instead of 900.
I can?t really see what causes this. The pedal on the correct car is far flimsier than on the high idle car, but other than that it is all the same (although one is a 3.8 and the other a 4.2)
Peder

Hi Peder,

A few thoughts...

Are the carb return springs in place ? Have you tried isolating the problem by disconnecting individual carbs from the linakge to see if one of the carbs is sticking open ? You could also try disconnecting each of the mangoletsi cables to see if one of them is snagging ?

Failing all the above I'd check all the levers connecting to the throttle linkage to see if anything is rubbing/pinching and preventing correct operation.

Regards,

Hi pmanson,
I just installed this kit and I have the same problem.
Yesterday it slowly went over 2000rpm, had to lift the pedal from below everytime before breaking (fun but scary :p).
Could it be the heat on the cable?

Does enyone have contact info to John Magnoletsi?
Tried to order head port injection manifold via SNG but the did not manage to get a quote from John and suggested I contacted him my self. Did get an email but havent got any replies yet. Thought it might be easier if I could get a phone number so I can call him directly.
Need to order this asap as I wont start converting to EFI until I know I have the proper manifold.

John's email address is pmangoletsi@yahoo.co.uk and he usually responds very quickly. He spends a lot of his time at his home on one of the Greek islands so no idea if he is in the UK at the moment.

Thank you, that was a different email address than what I was given from SNG . Hopefully he will respond :)

Still no reply after several emails. Does anyone have a good suggestion? I know exectly what I need and its only a matter of a place to purchase it from.

A few dealers mentioned here:
http://www.mangoletsimanifolds.com/dealers.html

Please contact Julian Barratt. I mentioned your problem to him on Sunday and we found the same issue on their static demonstrator. He was rightly concerned because of the safety implications and promised to investigate ASAP.

Hi,

I have the system also for more then a year. It works spotless for me, although it took some time to set it up. Main problem is the sync of the 3 carbs, but the trick is in essence the same as with the old linkage system.

I have the carbsprings on the car as needed, and they are strong enough to close al the throttle plates in my case. They close with a snap.

I guess something must be binding in the throttle system to overcome the carbsprings and let the plates stay open for a little bit.

Very interested to know what is causing this problem.

Richard

pmansson wrote:I have this on 2 of my E-types. On one car the gas pedal won?t go all the way back unless I put my toes behind it and pull it towards me. This means that the idle stays at about 1500 instead of 900.
I can?t really see what causes this. The pedal on the correct car is far flimsier than on the high idle car, but other than that it is all the same (although one is a 3.8 and the other a 4.2)
Peder

KingRichard wrote:Hi,

I have the system also for more then a year. It works spotless for me, although it took some time to set it up. Main problem is the sync of the 3 carbs, but the trick is in essence the same as with the old linkage system.

I have the carbsprings on the car as needed, and they are strong enough to close al the throttle plates in my case. They close with a snap.

I guess something must be binding in the throttle system to overcome the carbsprings and let the plates stay open for a little bit.

Very interested to know what is causing this problem.

Richard

I had this trouble with mine when I set it up, I'm not sure whether it was the stiffness of my newly reconditioned carbs or the newness of the throttle linkages but several hundred miles down the road all is well now.

Ian

Was this problem ever solved?
(that when I let go of the gas pedal, the engine falls to perhaps 1500 (or more) but nowhere near the 7-800 rpm). I put my foot under the pedal and pull it towards me, and that will bring it down a bit, towards 1200 perhaps.
Everything is set up correctly.

Are you sure that the three connecting rods can move their rose joints easily? on my car, one of the rods was tight, adjusting it resolved the issue you are facing.

Ian

I just fitted one of these excellent kits. The rod connecting the three carburettors is almost certainly the problem. These aviation-grade rose joints are so well made that the adjustment of these three is EXTREMELY critical. One flat of adjustment is sufficient to make that rod bend enough to make it bind perceptibly. You would have to disconnect everything from that rod before adjusting the rose joints, so you can feel what is going on. I spent a fair bit of time getting mine exactly right. The result is an action which is an absolute joy. My engine is not yet in the car, but every time I walk past it I have to give the throttle lever a tweak for the sheer pleasure of feeling such a beautiful action!

I Have the same problem and traced it down to something being "sticky" in the pedal box.
So I added two springs at the pedal box pulling the lever back.
I can live the higher force necessary to push "the pedal to metal" and it works much better now, but still sticks sometimes when car is driven hot.
I have covered the wires on the left side of the engine (lhd car) with proper heat insulation, so it's unlikely that it's wires sticking when hit.
Looking forward to read a solution...
Alex

"Something sticky in the pedal box"? Hmmmm ;)

Please forgive me if I bring this up again.
The problem is still there:
Driving for a longer time on a warm day results in the pedal "sticking" so the revs keep up at something above 3000 RPM in neutral. That is despite strong springs trying to close the butterflies.
Any ideas how to make the Mangoletsi - pedal-box heat-proof?
Thank you
Alex

One thing I found when I installed a Mangoletsi throttle was that it is an EXTREMELY delicate operation to set all three rose joints the correct distance out where the throttle shaft goes through them. If one is the tiniest bit out, the shaft will bind, and as there is no slop in the aviation-grade rose joints, it has to be just right.

Than you Hugo, you've mentioned that already somewhere.
In my case the "sticky" bit seems to be at the other side of the wire: st the pedal box.