Running - in Oil

Alty Ian · Post by **Alty Ian** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 1:54 pm

What oil do people recommend after a rebuild of a 4.2 XK engine for the first 300-500 miles ?

There seem to be lots of differing opinions.

A straight 30's grade, or a 15/40 oil without anti wear additives?

norman m. macleod · Post by **norman m. macleod** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 2:57 pm

Penrite 15W -40 Running-in Oil, if you can get it.................
Regards,
Norman.

Mark Gordon · Post by **Mark Gordon** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 5:55 pm

You really don't need any special oil; just put in some cheap 10W30. You're going to change it after the first 500 miles, aren't you? Running in procedures are important, though. Keep the rev's under 2500 for the first 200 miles with no hard acceleration. Then, give her a good thrashing for the next 300 miles, gradually increasing your rev's up to 4-4500 with varying speeds and hard accelerations. That will make sure that the loose bits of metal get filtered out early on and then the pressure of hard accelerations and higher rev's will fully seat your new rings. Failure to do that will result in big time oil burning. I have a friend on this side of the Pond who was afraid to do the thrashing part and had a real oil burning problem until he took it out and gave it what-for. Fortunately he saw the light before the bores had become glazed.

Stuart Exelby · Post by **Stuart Exelby** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 6:43 pm

I used Morris' running-in oil - through SNGB - usual 10% discount for collecting at Stoneleigh made it quite reasonably priced.

Reminder to self - must go out and give the car a good thrashing.........!

flatfloor 3.8 · Post by **flatfloor 3.8** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 6:47 pm

Alty Ian wrote:What oil do people recommend after a rebuild of a 4.2 XK engine for the first 300-500 miles ?

There seem to be lots of differing opinions.

A straight 30's grade, or a 15/40 oil without anti wear additives?

I used Millers running in oil from OPIE OILS on line.

Alty Ian · Post by **Alty Ian** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 7:09 pm

So is a multi grade running in oil best or a straight SAE 30 like Morris or Millers?

Or is the 15W40 formulation just to cater for a wider range of engines?

Gfhug · Post by **Gfhug** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:05 pm

Ian, there is a lot of myth about needing a straight oil for running in. Aero engines are plagued by this. But it has been proved to be unnecessary.
After all is your new, off the production line car filled with a straight oil?
Use a multi grade as Mark Gordon suggests and get those first miles in promptly, then you can get on with driving the car without worrying.
That's my twopenny worth, for what it's worth

Geoff

Alty Ian · Post by **Alty Ian** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 9:57 pm

Geoff

New engines are basically run-in before delivery and do use thinner oils than older cars do as well, so I dont think thats comparable.

What seems to becoming clear now is that running in using a 20W50 oil (as I was advised) isnt the best approach, and thats whats in it now

Fortunately the car has only done about 10 miles so far at low revs, so going to drain the 20/50 and use a thinner oil for the first 300 or so miles.

Post by **Heuer** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:00 pm

I used 20W/50 from the start and the engine is performing superbly after 53,000 miles.

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 5:25 am

Alty Ian wrote: Fortunately the car has only done about 10 miles so far at low revs, so going to drain the 20/50 and use a thinner oil for the first 300 or so miles.

What a waste.

Gfhug · Post by **Gfhug** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 7:42 am

Heuer wrote:I used 20W/50 from the start and the engine is performing superbly after 53,000 miles.

So now it's just about run in will you start driving the car a bit more enthusiastically?

Alty Ian · Post by **Alty Ian** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 10:47 am

PeterCrespin wrote:
Alty Ian wrote: Fortunately the car has only done about 10 miles so far at low revs, so going to drain the 20/50 and use a thinner oil for the first 300 or so miles.
What a waste.

It wont be wasted Pete, I will use it in my Lanchester, that will run on anything!

Moeregaard · Post by **Moeregaard** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 12:28 pm

I've always used Castrol 20/50 with excellent results. Keep in mind that these engines were originally run with SAE 30W and had no problems, so all of the experimentation is most likely just a waste of time and oil.

Post by **Heuer** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 1:40 pm

I have run Mobil 1 synthetic with excellent results. It was introduced in 1974 so can be regarded as 'period'. Only downside is the cost if you are changing the oil every 3,000 miles although it is probably good for 12,000 miles. Having said that the old mechanic's adage of "the best oil is clean oil" rings in my ears!

Simon P · Post by **Simon P** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 3:24 pm

Heuer wrote:I used 20W/50 from the start and the engine is performing superbly after 53,000 miles.

Top tip: On the basis that a man can never have too many screwdrivers, Halfords are currently giving away a free set with every 5 litres of own-brand oil purchased - including Halfords 20W/50 Classic.

The oil:

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine ... l-20w50-5l

The screwdivers (with lifetime guarantee):

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... driver-set

Alty Ian · Post by **Alty Ian** » Fri Oct 16, 2015 3:03 pm

We had put 20/50 oil in the engine and following this thread we decided to change this for Millers SAE30 running in oil as it appears to have better spec for this purpose than the cheap stuff we used, actually I put 5 litres in of 30's with 3L of the 20/50. The car has done 42 miles so far and the engine run quite a few times when car stationery. The 20/50 oil I removed was quite dark which I put down to the graphogem assembly paste.

Anyway, I ran the engine again today for the first time since changing the oil and surprisingly the oil pressure increased on start up by about 10psi both on the sender AND the wet gauge to about 65-70 psi.

I didnt get the engine hot so dont know if this will be higher when hot. On the 20/50 oil it was about 55-60 cold and when hot and on tick over would fall to about 35-40psi.

Logic would suggest a lower pressure with less viscous oil? I wonder why its higher then?

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Fri Oct 16, 2015 4:26 pm

Ian : your mix of oils at close to 30 cold is more viscous when cold than your unadulterated 20/50 was, which is presumably why you are showing a higher pressure. However, once the lubricant gets hot - and on an XK this can take up to 35 miles according to David Marks - then your overall grade will be lower than the 50 hot which the 20/50 represented, and it will be interesting to see if the pressure is lower

Alty Ian · Post by **Alty Ian** » Fri Oct 16, 2015 5:14 pm

christopher storey wrote:Ian : your mix of oils at close to 30 cold is more viscous when cold than your unadulterated 20/50 was, which is presumably why you are showing a higher pressure. However, once the lubricant gets hot - and on an XK this can take up to 35 miles according to David Marks - then your overall grade will be lower than the 50 hot which the 20/50 represented, and it will be interesting to see if the pressure is lower

Thanks, interesting this as I never tried directly comparing oil performance before.

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