The 'E' Type Forum

Hi

Just in the process of taking out the engine/clutch/gearbox assembly and am now at the tie plate removal stage, which has me a little perplexed. Perhaps someone can help my understanding.

From the service manual :
"Remove the nuts securing the torsion bar reaction tie plate on each side and tap the bolts back flush with the face of the tie plate. With the aid of a helper, place a lever between the head of the bolt just released and the torsion bar. Exert pressure on the bolt head to release the tension on the upper bolt. Remove the nut and tap the upper bolt back flush with the face of the tie plate. Withdraw the bolts securing the tie plate on each side to the body underframe channels through the side members. Tap the tie plate off the four bolts."


So, if I take this piece by piece
The tie plate has 6 bolts, 3 each side. 2 on tie face plate and 1 connecting to the body underframe. So far so good.

1. remove the nuts securing the torsion bar reaction plate on each side.
- That is the nuts on the four bolts, 2 left, 2 right.
2. tap the bolts back flush with the face of the tie plate
- Tap these bolts back in the holes, so their ends are flush with the plate.

so far, so good. 4 nuts off, and bolts tapped back flush.#

3. With the aid of a helper, place a lever between the head of the bolt just released and the torsion bar.
- hmm I've just released no bolts, only 4 nuts and tapped the bolts back. which bolt is meant. The one just above the torsion bar entering the tie plate I assume...
Which direction should be levered? down? couple of options here.
Bolt
Lever
Torsion Bar

4. Exert pressure on the bolt head to release the tension on the upper bolt.
- OK. Once step 3 is worked out, that sounds easy enough.

5. Remove the nut and tap the upper bolt back flush with the face of the tie plate.
- Strange, I thought that had already been done in step 1 and 2

6. Withdraw the bolts securing the tie plate on each side to the body underframe channels through the side members.
- OK. Not much clearance, but looks possible.

7. Tap the tie plate off the four bolts.
Might be a challenge, as it doesn't look like it will move in that direction.


I do wonder, if the torsion tie plate has been put back together by a PO with the bolts going the opposite way.

From the front of the car the bolts go towards the back. Bolt being at the front, nut on the rear end.
Are these instructions assuming the car is on the ground and not on a lift?

I'm sure I'm having a dumb moment here, but would appreciate any input before I have a torsion bar whacking me before I know what's coming.

I did look at the Front suspension piece in the manuals and the thread on "Torsion bar preload?" but am not any wiser. Didn't really want to be taking the full Front suspension apart as well as removing the engine.

I'm assuming you have the front of the car on jackstands that are NOT under the front lower wishbones. I put them under the very front of the chassis rail under the car. Alternatively use a hoist.
Disconnect all 3 of the front ball joints; this will allow you to remove the stub axle assembly. Hang this from the picture frame with strong wire.
Remove the front shock absorbers.
Now the front lower wishbones will hang down with NO TENSION on the torsion bar. without this you will never get the bars out.
At this point mark the positions of both torsion bars relative to both the lower wishbone (front) and the teardrop (rear).
Remove the TBs. There is a little bolt at the front that locates the TB in the wishbone. Remove this and simply tap them out forwards first, then remove to the rear. Now remove the bolts holding the teardrops in place and remove them too.
The reaction plate is now simply held in place by the two 5/16 bolts at the sides and the big bolt through the frame rail. YOu may need a hammer to knock it out.

Thank you Adam

The car is not on any jackstands, simply suspended in the air at 4 points on a lift. It seems the part I was missing was dismantling the suspension, I didn't realise this had to be done also from reading the service manual. Rookie mistake it seems.

You don't have to disconnect the suspension to get the reaction plate off, (but it does relieve the tension on the torsion bars if you do so) . I think Andrew Bowie was under the impression you were removing the suspension rather than just taking the engine and box out . If you follow the steps in the workshop manual, tapping the plate off is not difficult provided the wheels have been allowed to hang down to full extent of normal suspension travel

I am about to do the same job, once again. Engine has to come out. This time I will try to not damage the threads on the 4 bolts that hold the torsion bar.

Having said that I will also replace the 4 bolts. Last time I had to hammer them pretty hard and threads were damaged.

Those are high tensile steel bolts and the ones got before, from main suppliers, were not. I remember they were 3/8" and about 1.5" long. But I could not be sure of the thread as no nuts would fit due do damage.

Are they UNF?

4 blots that hold the re action plate are...3/8 unf.... is this what you mean .. Steve

Yeap, that is what I meant Steve.

I was planning to get some out of ebay.uk, grade 8.8.

Unless someone could recommend a more reliable supplier!?