refitting torsion bars
#1 refitting torsion bars
Hi all
Time to rebuild the engine bay and suspension this weekend and that means torsion bars. I've been having a good browse in the archives and the service manual. I see much information about adjustment, but what about the initial refit.
The car is on a lift. On removal, I took off the upper ball joint and pulled out the torsion bar, lower wishbone and hub all in one. I noticed some talk about a setting link being put in place but couldn't find any more about this. Where is the link made and what measurement should it be at when slotting in the bar.
Time to rebuild the engine bay and suspension this weekend and that means torsion bars. I've been having a good browse in the archives and the service manual. I see much information about adjustment, but what about the initial refit.
The car is on a lift. On removal, I took off the upper ball joint and pulled out the torsion bar, lower wishbone and hub all in one. I noticed some talk about a setting link being put in place but couldn't find any more about this. Where is the link made and what measurement should it be at when slotting in the bar.
-Mark
1969 Series 2 OTS, Regency Red
'Life's to short to drive a boring car'
1969 Series 2 OTS, Regency Red
'Life's to short to drive a boring car'
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#2
The process is well described in the manual. You need to make up the setting link out of a piece of flat bar; measurements are also shown there. Essentially you put the link in place of the shock absorber and then install the torsion bar. Make sure the splines are spotlessly clean, I usually use a wire brush. Then put plenty of grease or Never Seize on the splines.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB. 1979 MGB.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB. 1979 MGB.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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#3
Hi Mark....It really is a simple job as Andrew says so long as you follow the instructions in the Jaguar manual.....If you don't have one look in the Knowledge base section of this forum you will find it there.... Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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Moeregaard
- Posts: 763
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:23 pm
- Location: Thousand Oaks, California

#4
And never switch sides with your torsion bars. The Haynes manual has the dimensions for the setting link, and they also show how and where to take measurements for proper ride height.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
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#5
I made adjustable ones out of a turnbuckle. In my case it was an M8 one, so I used M8 threaded rod to make a new eye for the end with right hand thread. The manual lists different lengths for OTS, FHC and (i think) 2+2, so I've got the market cornered.
Andrew
Andrew
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#6
Thanks to all of you. The penny has finally dropped how the setting link gauge is used - and what it actually is. Fingers crossed.
-Mark
1969 Series 2 OTS, Regency Red
'Life's to short to drive a boring car'
1969 Series 2 OTS, Regency Red
'Life's to short to drive a boring car'
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Quattrofrank
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2014 4:17 pm
- Location: Norway, Oslo

#7
I used a piece of wood for the setting bar link. Basically anything can be used for this, zip ties etc.
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David Oslo
- Posts: 653
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- Location: Norway

#8
Bungy cord ? :DQuattrofrank wrote:I used a piece of wood for the setting bar link. Basically anything can be used for this, zip ties etc.
David
S1 2+2 '67 MOD conversion (going)
S2 OTS '70 (arriving)
S1 2+2 '67 MOD conversion (going)
S2 OTS '70 (arriving)
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#9
I have a similar difficulty to change the bushes of the lower wishbone ; do I have to remove the bar link ? or the support only ? or is there a clever solution to get the ubber out without removing the link ?
the manual is not very explicit

it was definitely time to replace some bushes , but surprinsigly enough the left side was much worse than the right side (and it was also true for the interior; I imagined that the PO was always parking with the south on the left, but when it comes to rubbers underneath, I can't find a reasonable explanation...

the manual is not very explicit

it was definitely time to replace some bushes , but surprinsigly enough the left side was much worse than the right side (and it was also true for the interior; I imagined that the PO was always parking with the south on the left, but when it comes to rubbers underneath, I can't find a reasonable explanation...

2+2 1970
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#10
Hi Ronaldo...you need to remove the wishbones and the bush retaining brackets....press out the old bush and press in a new one..Note that behind the upper brackets there are camber shim. .. Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#11
thanks
do I need to pull away the rod with the threaded end for that ?
do I need to pull away the rod with the threaded end for that ?
2+2 1970
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#12
Hi Ronaldo...its quite a lot of dismantling but you need to remove the wishbone the threaded rod is the fulcrum shaft....This with the brackets is removed then you can sort the bushes.. Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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