The 'E' Type Forum

Hi

Was just ready to mate up the new gearbox to the engine, when I ran into something of a problem. The pressure plate housing is about 2cm shallower than the previous one



Unfortunately, this means that when trying to decouple, the fork operating the release bearing can't move back far enough. It also looks like someone has been playing before with the bell housing.



I realised there was a difference for 9.5" and 10" assemblies, but didn't realise there could be a depth issue. Am I making some sort of rookie mistake here, do I need a different clutch fork, assuming I have a genuine e-type one already, or is it really down to the pressure plate housing?

What sort of gearbox is that?
A friend has a Supra 5 spreed conversion; it uses a Ford clutch, not the Jaguar one.

Hi Mark,

I'm assuming by the looks of it, it is a Tremec T5 gearbox with an adapter plate? I'm sure someone on here had a similar problem and had to releave the area round the bell housing / release arm hole to allow more travel. You may also find the corners of the adapter plate and gearbox flange need a bit filing off as it's a very tight fit in the transmission tunnel especially at the top.

Simon

Yes, it is the Jag T5 gearbox from Eliteracing.The adapter plate had bolt holes in metric so the original bolts wouldn't go.

I won't be needing the foam over the top of the gearbox then

Are you using the correct depth of throw-out bearing?

Can you point me to the throw out bearing? (I'm doing things in German here with the mechanic).

mark10337 wrote:Yes, it is the Jag T5 gearbox from Eliteracing.

They should be able to answer all your questions.

Contact us on 01782 280136

Elite Racing Transmissions
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mark10337 wrote:Can you point me to the throw out bearing? (I'm doing things in German here with the mechanic).

Don't understand question. Wenn Sie eine Antwort auf Deutsch brauchen m?ssen Sie Carsten fragen?

Clutch release bearing. Graphite thing. The diaphragm one is forward-set with the pivots offset behind on 'ears' to account for the thinner clutch.

3.8 / early 4.2 (allegedly) coil spring version has bearing pivots in line with the bearing and using this will cause the release arm to move too far backwards to take up the distance. Not saying that's your problem but it matches your symptom.

You can chew about half an inch from the adaptor plate and even the casing flange in that area to get more arm movement/clearance too. I'd think about adding a couple of extra smaller countersunk fasteners too, as the whole thing hangs off that adapter by four admittedly substantial but not very deep cap screws.

Pete

Hi Mark,

I have the exact same gearbox from Elite as you. I have just checked the instructions that I got with the 'box and it does say that if you use the 9.5" clutch assy you need to relieve the adapter plate slightly. I also have the same clutch as you but have only offered up the box with the clutch and not fully assembled it yet, so interested to see your progress.

I got my 9.5" clutch assembly from SNG and it came with a new release bearing. It is also important to use the friction plate that came with the 'box. If you use the standard plate, it does fit, but it is a bit too loose on the shaft which will give problems witb use.

One other observation from your picture, do you have the dowels inserted in the flywheel? It looks like one is missing from your pic.

Cheers.

Dowels going in today, we were just test fitting. It looks like the PO had used the 10" and also had to adapt the housing slightly (note it looks chipped out at the rear of the clutch fork).

I've used the Elite supplied friction plate, and pretty sure the supplied release bearing (I bought the complete Clutch kit from Martin Robey). It seems though, this may also have the same issue if I used the original gearbox. Might check that this afternoon.

A bit of a riddle at the moment exactly what is causing this.

PeterCrespin wrote: I'd think about adding a couple of extra smaller countersunk fasteners too, as the whole thing hangs off that adapter by four admittedly substantial but not very deep cap screws.

Pete

Just saw that. Personally I'd get longer screws and put a nut on the other side of the plate.

Another option would be to bend the clutch fork a bit.

Convert to hydraulic release bearing with the correct "throw" ?

http://tiltonracing.com/product-categor ... e-bearing/

abowie wrote:

PeterCrespin wrote:Personally I'd get longer screws and put a nut on the other side of the plate.

There's no room unless you start chewing holes in the bell housing. The surface of the adapter is dead flat and drilled for Jag bolt pattern of course. Not Jag bolts, mind you - coarse thread for the dural plate.

I think 'extras' would be mostly psychological, since as you know the T5 is only hung on four fasteners anyhow, even with a custom JT5 bell like you presumably use? Tempting to run a bead of alloy weld along each edge but not with a fully-assembled box.

Pete