As a festive period project, I ordered the kit to add central locking - I use the car as a daily driver and often with a passenger, so it would be a great added convenience.
Any suggestions for adding the wiring to the doors? Has anyone done / seen something similar that was executed in a sympathetic way?
Central locking
#1 Central locking
-Mark
1969 Series 2 OTS, Regency Red
'Life's to short to drive a boring car'
1969 Series 2 OTS, Regency Red
'Life's to short to drive a boring car'
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#2
Dear Mark,
My s3 has power windows with red warning LEDs embedded into the lower part of the casing of the door to warn any oncoming drivers that the door is ajar. Wiring can be taken out by attaching it to the top of the hinge. This way it doesn't foul any of the moving parts and can join the main loom through the various hollowed out cavities of the bulkhead.
What you are proposing may be problematic in that the solenoids may be quite large and to fit them may mean that you foul the window glass. There is plenty of space at the base of the doors but proportionately less as you go higher up. Sadly, the door locks are "high" and this isn't good news.
The other consideration is that they will have to be mounted very rigidly against the inner door skin or door base.
Finally, they will pull a lot of current when activating and you'll want to consider that carefully when it comes to wiring, relays and fuses.
Good luck.
kind regards
Marek
My s3 has power windows with red warning LEDs embedded into the lower part of the casing of the door to warn any oncoming drivers that the door is ajar. Wiring can be taken out by attaching it to the top of the hinge. This way it doesn't foul any of the moving parts and can join the main loom through the various hollowed out cavities of the bulkhead.
What you are proposing may be problematic in that the solenoids may be quite large and to fit them may mean that you foul the window glass. There is plenty of space at the base of the doors but proportionately less as you go higher up. Sadly, the door locks are "high" and this isn't good news.
The other consideration is that they will have to be mounted very rigidly against the inner door skin or door base.
Finally, they will pull a lot of current when activating and you'll want to consider that carefully when it comes to wiring, relays and fuses.
Good luck.
kind regards
Marek
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#3
Well I managed to fit a solenoid, at the base of the door on the side.
First I checked the position and then removed the window mechanism to facilitate proper fitting. This also gave me the opportunity to clean up inside the door and I'll re-adjust the window to make it fit properly which it never did. I also noticed the square nut limiting the uptravel of the glass was missing as was a vapour barrier.
Unfortunately the motor doesn't quite seem powerful enough at the moment, or it is a case of fettling. It may be the lock needs a good greasing, but at the moment it's not pushing the spring home.
First I checked the position and then removed the window mechanism to facilitate proper fitting. This also gave me the opportunity to clean up inside the door and I'll re-adjust the window to make it fit properly which it never did. I also noticed the square nut limiting the uptravel of the glass was missing as was a vapour barrier.
Unfortunately the motor doesn't quite seem powerful enough at the moment, or it is a case of fettling. It may be the lock needs a good greasing, but at the moment it's not pushing the spring home.
Last edited by mark10337 on Fri Jun 30, 2017 6:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-Mark
1969 Series 2 OTS, Regency Red
'Life's to short to drive a boring car'
1969 Series 2 OTS, Regency Red
'Life's to short to drive a boring car'
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#4
That's cool. I used a similar solenoid (~$7) for my Infiniti as the Nissan ones are junk. The $7 one is helping the OEM one so it doesnt need as much oomph.
You might see if you can position it so you get more leverage or you may need a more powerful one. Hard to see from that angle.
The cheap ones can be as little as 10 pounds of pull (http://tinyurl.com/h3cy99z)
And this kit has 45lbers
http://www.jegs.com/i/Electric-Life/366 ... tId=755583
where this one from Jeg's is 60.
http://tinyurl.com/zuvknoj
BWAHAHAHAHAA!
You might see if you can position it so you get more leverage or you may need a more powerful one. Hard to see from that angle.
The cheap ones can be as little as 10 pounds of pull (http://tinyurl.com/h3cy99z)
And this kit has 45lbers
http://www.jegs.com/i/Electric-Life/366 ... tId=755583
where this one from Jeg's is 60.
http://tinyurl.com/zuvknoj
BWAHAHAHAHAA!
70 E-type OTS
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |