Kickdown cable fitting Mangoletsi kit XJ6 BW66 gearbox

[JD-JAG66]

Hello everybody,
My 1966 S1 2+2 came without engine and the automatic gearbox was in a plastic box inside the car.
So I bought a Jaguar XJ6 SIII with the intention of fitting engine and automatic gearbox into my E type. I know most would favour converting to manual, but I like auto boxes.
Anyway, I found (google) some companies that supply autobox conversions for the E type, so I know it is possible.
Since the XJ6 injection system will not fit the E type I opted for a Mangoletsi - Jenvey kit. And this is where everything came to a grinding halt.
Is there anybody that has experience on where and how to fit the kickdown cable? Mangoletsi, nor his friends could not help me out.
What about the kickdown switch, will I still require this?
Would love to hear from anybody before I fork out ?3800...

[Kickstarter]

Series1 2+2 option was a BW8 auto gearbox. On my 68 Series 1.5 I run for a year a BW66 without any problem and go back to original BW8 (matching numbers).
BW66 has no electrical kick-down, kick-down is operated by the cable conected to the throttle linkage. The kabel is used for the load sensing of the engine and gives not only kick-down comand but also the pressure for shifting.
If you could no use the XJ6 throttle to kick-down cable mechanics you could measure the traveling needed of the inner cable just by pulling. You will sense a resistance short before full out, that is the point were kick-down is starting. Find a point in throttle linkage with the same travelling and make a conection.

[michael321]

I also have a kick down cable issue with my 1970 2+2 which has an XJ6 motor and 3 speed auto box in it - I don't know which model gearbox it is though.. I measured the travel of the inner cable for the kick down and it appears to be approx 2" total ( 1" before the resistance which I assume is the kick down point that Kickstarter mentioned?) the problem is that the connection I have from the kick down bracket uses a rotational lever with max travel of perhaps only .75" - sounds like your suggestion to find an alternative connection on the throttle linkage is a good idea but 2" travel seems a lot.. Does that sound right to you? ( just checking before I dive in.. ) thanks!

Series1 2+2 option was a BW8 auto gearbox. On my 68 Series 1.5 I run for a year a BW66 without any problem and go back to original BW8 (matching numbers).
BW66 has no electrical kick-down, kick-down is operated by the cable conected to the throttle linkage. The kabel is used for the load sensing of the engine and gives not only kick-down comand but also the pressure for shifting.
If you could no use the XJ6 throttle to kick-down cable mechanics you could measure the traveling needed of the inner cable just by pulling. You will sense a resistance short before full out, that is the point were kick-down is starting. Find a point in throttle linkage with the same travelling and make a conection.

[Kickstarter]

Sorry, I'm not close to my car, therefore I could not measure.
It should be worth to measure the way, the throttle linkage made to cross from left side to right side in front of the bulkhead. For BW8 it works a frend told me for his S2 car, because he get the car with a missing linkage between throttle and gear box.

[michael321]

Thanks. I will take a closer look - right now figuring out some odd linkage issues to try and make sure I'm getting full throttle. Happy New Year!

[JD-JAG66]

Thanks Kickstarter,
I ran over to the car this morning and could confirm your feedback when pulling the cable. With this I looked up some pictures on the fuel injection system throttle linkage system that I intend to buy, and where I could possibly fix the cable and all looked well.
Unfortunately after some measurement, it doesn't look like the cable will be long enough so as to fit in a way to do its job properly.
So am searching for a longer kickdown cable.... :?
Thanks again and Happy New Year!