Torsion Bars revisted

[Wicker Francis]

With respect to the Series 1 4.2.........I don't know if I'm looking for sympathy or advice but I'll take either at this point.

As front suspension has been assembled, the new adjustable reaction plate is fitted, lower wishbone lowered to specified distance, the rear splined piece in place, the left hand torsion bar is slid into the rear and out the backside. I then move the torsion bar forward looking for the right set up where front and rear splines line up.
I see that the torsion bar has a slight angle so that it does not slide easily into the front wishbone. In other words, it appears the rear and front receiving splines are ever so slightly not in plane to the point the torsion bar will not enter the forward splines without a lot of persuasion . Then half way in it stops and won't go further.

When I took the car apart I marked everything carefully and note that the torsion bars appeared to have been switched at some point in it's history. Now that I am attempting to put them back per the factory markings, could I expect that maybe the bars are not exactly straight or could be a matter that that reaction plate is out of sync with the lower wishbone?

Sorry for the wordy explanation.

[christopher storey]

It's rather a long time since I have replaced the bars on my cars but I think the answer is that the splines create a vernier arrangement to permit a certain amount of adjustment. IIRC one end has one more spline than the other, something like 65 at one end and 64 at the other . If you cannot engage both front and rear splines, you need to disengage the one set that is engaged, rotate the torsion bar a spline or two, and then try again . By the way, the used bars that I have seen usually have a very gentle curve to them - it's only a degree or two , but it is usually present , and that might be why you are getting stuck halfway . A good bang on the end with a rubber mallet may help

[andrewh]

one of the fiddliest jobs on the car IMHO, and something that you want right as its such a pain to put right afterwards. I also, cannot recall exactly but are the TBs exactly the same front to back or is the front grooved, I think it is, to take the lock bolt?

[mgcjag]

Hi Wicker...not sure on your adjustable set up but on a standard one you should not have the rear splined adjuster on the reaction plate, or the bar splines.. just leave it swinging on the bar.....slide the bar rearwards through the reaction plate then forward to engage in the wishbone...then slide the adjuster rearwards engaging the splines till the bolt holes line up....if they dont repeat the above turning the bar one spline at a time in the wishbone.. ...you may have to do this quite a few times till all line up....as Christopher says its a vernier, different No of splines each end.....so you may have to go round possibly 24 times.. this should be an easy job, NO hammering, just tapping with a mallet..hope this helps.. Steve

[Wicker Francis]

Thanks for responses.

Steve, I note your technique is per the manual with the non adjustable reaction plate. This I may try although I wonder if it will then be difficult to then get the rear adjuster into place. As I say the front and rear receiving splines seem to be out of plane.

Will give it the old college try

[andrewh]

have you got the top wishbone ball joint disconnected?

[mgcjag]

Hi Wicker....if they are are out of plane and you have the correct spline settings at both ends but the rear adjuster wont slot in, just release the setting link to lower the wishbone slightly this may let the rear adjuster slot in and the bolts fit... then try to reconnect the setting link, if its too loose or tight use your adjuster till it fits and you have the correct ride height

[abowie]

With the lower wishbone set correctly with the setting link the front and rear holes are no longer perfectly lined up. That is normal.

[64etype]

With the lower wishbone set correctly with the setting link the front and rear holes are no longer perfectly lined up. That is normal.

Right. I just did this job (with original torsion bars...very slight bow). I found that the forward spline goes in easiest with the wishbone horizontal. Then install the setting link and check for hole line up at the rear. If no alignment, remove the link, reset the forward wishbone to horizontal, remove/reset the forward spline, reset the setting link, recheck for hole alignment at rear....repeat until you get lucky....

[Wicker Francis]

Many, many thanks everyone !

These are some good ideas. This is one of those projects that instead of beating on things in frustration you need to walk away, take a breath, have a tea, get some advice and go back at it.

Wicker

[Wicker Francis]

Thanks to some of these ideas this job completed quickly. For future reference, the key to this job is to leave the rear eared piece hanging on the bar forward of the splines, insert the front splines first and then fit the rear piece. The instructions that come with the adjustable reaction plate are misleading specifying to bolt in the rear piece and then slide bar into place front and rear. It's OK to bolt in the rear piece to to find the right fit for front and rear splines, but after that's done mark it, unbolt the rear eared piece and leave hanging on bar whilst sliding front splines into place.