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#1 S2 indicators, brake lights and gauges stopped working
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:14 am
by IanC
Hi all, I have a problem with my car that I would appreciate some advice on.
The other day I was at my mates bodyshop fitting some new mx5 seats (not sure if this is related or a coincidence) but when I left I noticed that most of the electrics were no longer working.
On further inspection it seems that all of the items which have gone off relate to fuse number 7, which I have checked and replaced to no improvement. I did read that sometimes fuses can be altered over the years so I have inspected others and cant find any obvious faults there either.
I have checked for loose wires and can not find any, will need to check in the boot later, but if anyone has any suggestions it would be a big help, I had organised an auto electrician to come and check over it but he canceled so I guess I will have to sort this myself.
The car is a 69 ots left hand drive. Cheers
#2
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:42 am
by mgcjag
Hi Ian.....have you checked with a meter that you have 12v to the fuse....you could also try pulling off the connectors from the fuse terminals and cleaning them...
#3
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 10:07 am
by iani
mgcjag wrote:Hi Ian.....have you checked with a meter that you have 12v to the fuse....you could also try pulling off the connectors from the fuse terminals and cleaning them...
Also check that the end caps on the fuse are secure, the fuse can look visibly intact but have come apart.
#4
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 10:15 am
by Quattrofrank
Had the same issue. Dont trust that there is connection even if the fuse is not broken.
I measured for connection on both side of the fuse and found that there was none. This was due to dirt where the fuse meets the terminal.
Removed all the fuses and used sandingpaper on the connection points.
If you are lucky you have the same issue, the fix is easy and free :)
#5
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 11:47 am
by Heuer
A Voltage tester bulb is superb value at ?2 and includes a sharp spike to penetrate insulation. I use it more than my multimeter to trace faults - so simple! I keep this one in the tool roll:
In the workshop I use its heavy duty big brother:
#6 Fuses
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 1:09 pm
by cactusman
Bet it is either the fuse or the holder. Current cartridge fuses do not have the fuse wire welded to the end caps like in the old days. Just folded over the ends of the glass tube and the cap pressed on. I had endless issues with mine loosing the indicators and it turned out to be a dodgy fuse. Worth cleaning the holder clips too with emery paper or the like.
#7
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 1:40 pm
by IanC
Cheers for all the replies, I will investigate the fuse further tonight, although I do have a pack of 10 at hand, and tried 2 or 3 of these already. I will clean the contacts with emry paper too and advise if this helps.... I hope its something as simple!
I was wondering if fitting the seats I could have cu through a wire, although I wouldnt expect them to run under the carpet and seat runners?
#8
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 2:09 pm
by MarekH
The loom runs along the inside of the car, along the sill, about half way up - well clear of the floor.
kind regards
Marek
#9
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:49 pm
by PeterCrespin
MarekH wrote:The loom runs along the inside of the car, along the sill, about half way up - well clear of the floor.
kind regards
Marek
Apart from the handbrake switch wires...
#10
Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:08 am
by IanC
I tried sandpaper on the connections at either end of the fuse last night, as well as trying a few more fuses ad still I have not managed to sort it. I have borrowed a voltage tester to see if power is getting to the fuse.
What else could stop all of these working? Everything worked okay before
#11
Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 8:31 am
by MarekH
Dear Ian,
If any of the other items on the same fuse work, then it isn't the fuse.
To make any circuit work, you need the other side to also be connected, so a poor or missing earth on the other side of the bulb can also stop it from working. If there is no common item, then you'll want to trace through where you do and don't have connectivity.
Having a spare long lead means you can jumper a connection and see whether you have just bypassed a problem.
The only time you'd expect a wire under the seat is when you have a seatbelt warning system fitted.
kind regards
Marek
#12
Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 10:02 pm
by timhum
I Had a similar issue with my S1, turned out to be a faulty reversing light switch.
Tim
#13
Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 11:37 am
by IanC
to give some closure to this topic, I eventually gave up and called a friend who knows car electrics, he found some loose connections behind the gauges. I didn't think this could be the issue, but it was, it got the point that my car wouldn't even start.
I now have some new spade connectors, heatshrink and solder and I am going to go through the wiring addressing faults I can see.