Wishbone ball joint gaiters
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mgcjag
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#1 Wishbone ball joint gaiters
Hi All.....anyone changed the gaiters on the wishbone ball joints, what type did you use and from where......a friend just got some of the clear ones and found they were too big...was told he needed a plastic insert....got them but they wouldnt fit.....he,s now chasing with the supplier....one of the usuals.....need to replace mine soon due to some cracking in the black rubber......what have you used...thanks ...... Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#2
Clear ones. I lock wired them in place.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia
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Quattrofrank
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David Oslo
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#4
I fitted clear ones 2 years ago, sort of flat pancake design, Jag spec, but they split after a year, the 'silicone' material had harnened and was not very flexible.
I changed them out with the black type (still Jag spec) that looks like the classic 'boot' we're used to. They are still flexible. I've ordered replacements for all the ball joints now. Don't want to get an "advisory" on an MOT due to a ?3 part.
Both types were wired into place, twice around circumference then twisted off. Not just the C-clip type, which seemed a bit weak.
I changed them out with the black type (still Jag spec) that looks like the classic 'boot' we're used to. They are still flexible. I've ordered replacements for all the ball joints now. Don't want to get an "advisory" on an MOT due to a ?3 part.
Both types were wired into place, twice around circumference then twisted off. Not just the C-clip type, which seemed a bit weak.
Last edited by David Oslo on Thu Apr 21, 2016 11:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
David
S1 2+2 '67 MOD conversion (going)
S2 OTS '70 (arriving)
S1 2+2 '67 MOD conversion (going)
S2 OTS '70 (arriving)
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mgcjag
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#5
Just an update on my friends visit to the suplier......looks like his clear ones were slightly too large think they are from a S3 packaged wrong.......the plastic insert is too hard and does not fit...thats all they had....went to another supplyer who had jag inserts, these were softer material and should fit ok
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#6 BALL JOINT RUBBERS
The best type I have found are made of Polly Urethane, last for years & are best kept in place with wire!
John.
John.
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mgcjag
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#7
Hi John...what colour and where from...thanks
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#8
Clear, I got them in South Africa where i live, but believe they are used extensively in the Nordic Countries where extreme temperatures are a factor
You could try AYD Suspension manufactures in Turkey, I know that they have them.
Regards
John.
You could try AYD Suspension manufactures in Turkey, I know that they have them.
Regards
John.
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rossbraithwaite
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#9
Slightly off topic but still on the ball joint rubber gaitors:
I still have the standard type held in place with a circular metal wire clip. These always come off when I jack the front end up because the front suspension drops to the limit. They are very difficult to get back on. Does any one have any advice or tips for getting these back into place? Also, any tips to prevent them coming off or will they just tear?
Thanks, ross
I still have the standard type held in place with a circular metal wire clip. These always come off when I jack the front end up because the front suspension drops to the limit. They are very difficult to get back on. Does any one have any advice or tips for getting these back into place? Also, any tips to prevent them coming off or will they just tear?
Thanks, ross
'67 S1.5 FHC, manual, maroon with black interior. Originally exported to Arizona but 'repatriated' in '89. Since converted to RHD and triple SUs.
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mgcjag
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#10
Hi Ross.....yours could be comming off because the retaining clips are worn...or you have incorrect gaiters...either replace them or as others above have sugested wire tie them on...
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#11
Is it an MOT failure if the gaitor has failed but there is no play in the joint or only an advisory?David Oslo wrote: Don't want to fail an MOT due to a ?3 part.
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mgcjag
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#12
Hi Bob.....as far as im aware its a fail.....not worth chancing your luck....if they are cracked,split you will only get dirt in there......if you have a friendly mot guy and they are not to bad he may let you through
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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David Oslo
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#13
Over here we have different types of fail, guess it's similar in UK. Worst kind is your car is parked and you can't drive home, safety critical stuff. Next kind is a fail that you have to repair and re-show to the test centre once fixed, or else the MOT will lapse. Then the last kind is just the 'heads-up' keep an eye on things. I've checked the government guidelines, and a split or missing ball joint gaitor is actually just the last type, you get a notification but you don't fail.
Common sense of course says that this could lead to corrosion, stiffness, wear etc, which then gives the next level up of fail, e.g. a real fail. So it's good to keep the rubbers tidy.
Common sense of course says that this could lead to corrosion, stiffness, wear etc, which then gives the next level up of fail, e.g. a real fail. So it's good to keep the rubbers tidy.
David
S1 2+2 '67 MOD conversion (going)
S2 OTS '70 (arriving)
S1 2+2 '67 MOD conversion (going)
S2 OTS '70 (arriving)
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