The 'E' Type Forum

Hi,

I have reached this state:



I am asking myself - should I use clear coat on the covers ? A friend says that if I buy heat resistent clear coat from a rattle can like Duplicolor.

Do it or "leave as is, polished, naked aluminium" ?

I paid 80 Euros to get all three parts (2 covers and the crank case vent) to this point...bit expensive I thought, but initially he asked 160 ! but offered a lower standard for 80, I agreed and then he gave a wrong command to his colleague and he did it as fine as he could removing even the smallest faults- and then had to hand them over for 80 :-).

Still not cheap.

Carsten

I would not put any lacquer on them. The problem is that if, as is inevitable, any defect appears in the lacquer e.g. scratches from a spanner , you will have to strip the lacquer off and start again . If you leave them bare, a polish by hand with metal polish perhaps twice a year is all that is necessary

PS there a number of professionals who protect them with a light rub over with oil on a cotton cloth

Durango2k wrote:Hi,

I have reached this state:



I am asking myself - should I use clear coat on the covers ? A friend says that if I buy heat resistent clear coat from a rattle can like Duplicolor.

Do it or "leave as is, polished, naked aluminium" ?

I just finished this nasty time consuming job myself. Had to use 80 grit sandpaper on one of them at the beginning. I'd strongly urge you to leave them bare aluminum. A product called White Diamond is a combination polish and sealant, and it is truly amazing stuff.

Carsten, I totally agree with the first two responses. Do NOT put any finish on the polished cam covers. When they start to lose their shine, White Diamond will bring them back to their current state and it leaves a protective film that inhibits oxidation. I polished mine with WD last September and didn't touch them again until this past week (having driven it occasionally through the winter) and they really didn't need much of a polish but I felt kind of anal getting her ready for the first show of the year.

Agree wholeheartedly with the others. Don't even think of laquering. Just polish once in a while with a good quality metal polish. If you leave the car for a while then a quick wipe with an oily cloth or puff of WD40 will prevent any damp tarnishing the surface. Better still wipe with ACF50...bit like WD but just ever so slightly thicker. Biker boys use it to protect ally surfaces... Great to wipe chrome bumpers with too before you hibernate the car for winter.

Carsten

You just take them back for an annual super-detailed polish for 80 Euros, just make sure the same command mistake happens next time too !

Polishing mops and compounds (with spindle) from eBay - ?25, maybe ?40 with postage to Germany.
Covers off and polishing once each year (while checking the valve gaps) 30 minutes each side.
Saving ?40 next year and ?80 each year thereafter. Job done!

I have used NevrDull earlier in life. Is WhiteDiamond better ?

(decision made: No lacquer, re-polish once a year).

Carsten

I have not found White Diamond to be be superior to other metal polishes on alloy, ( although it is good on brass/copper ) and it tends to be much more expensive than others. It is perfectly adequate, but nothing exceptional in my opinion . I should use your own preferred polish . Chrome Magic can also be recommended

Durango2k wrote:...or "leave as is, polished, naked aluminium" ?

Remember that Jaguar never polished the alloy this much, so as these age slightly they will become more realistic. The correct finish for carbs and covers is not a chrome-like shine but one step below: a shiny brushed or satin polish. Many people overdo it because it looks spectacular but it's bot accurate..