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#1 Stubborn half shaft UJ's
Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 6:25 pm
by 265bhp
Evening all
I have tried to remove these using the method in the maintenance manual, but I suspect that if original these universal joints have 50 years holding them in place and need something more determined than taps
Are the UJ cups tapered...or can I try the other approach of a pair of sockets and either the vice or a press..?..just wondering if they have to be pressed out from the yolks or can be pushed through them
Advice please
Thanks
Jonathan
#2
Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 6:34 pm
by tim wood
My only note is that when faced with a similar problem some years back I used the vice and sockets method plus a extension bar on the vice handle.
Result, broken vice and steadfast UJs
Tim
#3
Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 7:49 pm
by 265bhp
Hi Tim
So what did you do then....?...so long as they are not tapered I can safely try a press..the vice isn't generating enough force I can tell already having tried..!
#4
Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 8:06 pm
by 265bhp
Hi Tim
So what did you do then....?...so long as they are not tapered I can safely try a press..the vice isn't generating enough force I can tell already having tried..!
#5
Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 8:11 pm
by mgcjag
Hi Jonathan...to shock them out they need more than a tap they need a good whack wtih a big hammer it does work......also try using a thin punch from inside to knock them out,
#6
Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 8:12 pm
by Quattrofrank
Used a vice and two sockets to do mine, worked fine.
#7
Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 9:21 pm
by abowie
They are not tapered.
#8
Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 9:23 pm
by 265bhp
Good to know it's OK to push them inwards.....Brute force with a socket and a lump hammer has shifted 3 of the cups slightly, so at least the principle seems to work...garage floor is taking a pounding and showing the marks too..

...have left them with some penetrating oil overnight...lets see what tomorrow evening brings....might even use the angle grinder to cut the joints so I can knock all cups inwards...lets see
#9
Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 4:41 am
by Durango2k
I had to cut the old ones and then it's simple.
Carsten
#10
Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 4:33 pm
by tim wood
Sorry, definitely not tapered.
Used the large hammer and shock method. Nowadays I would use my mates press to get the old ones out. After a good clean of the bores and the circlip grooves the new ones should press in easily enough using a vice.
Make sure you don't displace the needle rollers during assembly as this then makes the job a real sod. Plenty of grease and gentle progress.
Some stories of poor quality joints so best to make sure and use a reliable supplier.
#11
Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 5:51 pm
by mgcjag
But the hard bit is to get the first one out....either by shock or punch from inside out.....
#12
Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 9:57 pm
by 265bhp
Hi guys
One side done..the outer 4 were the first 4 and they were more tricky..inner 4 much easier..although by then I was belting the socket with much more confidence ..!..angle grinder cutter also has come in useful I should say
So far 3 different styles of circlips...
Will post pictures of the carnage once second side complete
Thanks for the guidance
Jonathan
#13
Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 3:21 am
by abowie
I think the statement that the cups will come out with a sharp tap from a hammer is the best joke I have ever seen in a service manual.
#14
Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 5:19 pm
by Mich7920
...And yet it moves...no, it works!
A service manuel is made for a car with max 10/15 years old, ours get 55 !
So don't be surprised that some explanation don't work as fine as you would like.
it's normal.
But sure with a big hard plastic mallet, it's work fine.
I change all of mine on my OTS 1963, nearly all came with the hammer but to be hannest, some came with the press !
The problem was that a guy before me used a iron hammer, so there where mark on the parts.
Forget the hammer ! it's hurt all the parts !
Mich
#15
Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 7:11 pm
by 265bhp
all done... :)
as with all these things it became easier the more I did....i think I just got the worst one first...inners were easier than outers....
now a question please...there seem to be various offerings of UJ's from SNG, David Manners and XK Unlimited....SNG have them at ?14, ?28 and ?70 each...described as "upgraded"...does anyone have any experience of which ones are the best to choose
Many thanks
Jonathan
#16
Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 8:17 pm
by JagWaugh
Johnathan,
Take them into a local GKN driveline shop and ask their price... I would almost bet that it would be less to have them replace with their own, known quality, probably with a guarantee for less than 4x 70gbp
Andrew
#17
Posted: Mon May 02, 2016 7:31 pm
by 265bhp
Good idea Andrew, will try them tomorrow
#18
Posted: Mon May 02, 2016 8:39 pm
by steve3.8
265bhp wrote:all done... :)
now a question please...there seem to be various offerings of UJ's from SNG, David Manners and XK Unlimited....SNG have them at ?14, ?28 and ?70 each...described as "upgraded"...does anyone have any experience of which ones are the best to choose
Many thanks
Jonathan
Jonathan ,
Although the joints will have the same outer cup diameters the upgraded / heavy duty ones have deeper cups that allow longer needle rollers , they also have a slightly larger pin diameter and steel capped seals .
GKN joints also come with quality tempered circlips , this item an it's fit is where care and attention is most needed ! , if you cut a piece off an old circlip and grind the end square it can be used with long nosed pliers to clean the grooves out in the yokes.
Steve