Cometic Cam Cover Gaskets

Technical advice Q&A

Topic author
iani
Posts: 520
Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:36 pm
Location: Northamptonshire
Great Britain

#1 Cometic Cam Cover Gaskets

Post by iani » Sat May 07, 2016 6:21 pm

Has anyone tried Cometic cam cover gaskets? they seem to only be available from the US at the moment, if they work as suggested I might be tempted.
E-type - TBC
1968 Triumph GT6 Mk1

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

chrisfell
Posts: 1597
Joined: Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:52 am
Location: Salisbury
St Lucia

#2

Post by chrisfell » Sat May 07, 2016 7:08 pm

I found that ordinary gaskets are perfectly OK on the cam covers. No leaks ever, despite being removed every year for the last thirteen to check the valves.
Chris '67 S1 2+2

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Topic author
iani
Posts: 520
Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:36 pm
Location: Northamptonshire
Great Britain

#3

Post by iani » Sat May 07, 2016 7:35 pm

chrisfell wrote:I found that ordinary gaskets are perfectly OK on the cam covers. No leaks ever, despite being removed every year for the last thirteen to check the valves.
You're lucky, I'm struggling with my N/S cover, it's leaking badly and I've changed the gasket twice in the last couple of weeks, I've diminished the flow but it's still bad.
E-type - TBC
1968 Triumph GT6 Mk1

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

mgcjag
Moderator
Posts: 9206
Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2010 6:15 pm
Location: Ludlow Shropshire
Great Britain

#4

Post by mgcjag » Sat May 07, 2016 9:28 pm

Hi Ian.....have you checked the mating surface of the cover is flat and not distorted....also worth trying to check the mating surface on the head......
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

Moeregaard
Posts: 763
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:23 pm
Location: Thousand Oaks, California
United States of America

#5

Post by Moeregaard » Sun May 08, 2016 4:07 pm

As Steve says, condition of the mating surfaces is critical. Using a screwdriver to prise them off creates pathways for oil leaks, as does over-torquing by ham-fisted mechanics. The standard gaskets are more than adequate, provided the surfaces are perfect. Also, the copper washers should be replace as well, but make sure you get the proper annealed items.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036

Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Topic author
iani
Posts: 520
Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:36 pm
Location: Northamptonshire
Great Britain

#6

Post by iani » Sun May 08, 2016 4:52 pm

Moeregaard wrote:As Steve says, condition of the mating surfaces is critical. Using a screwdriver to prise them off creates pathways for oil leaks, as does over-torquing by ham-fisted mechanics. The standard gaskets are more than adequate, provided the surfaces are perfect. Also, the copper washers should be replace as well, but make sure you get the proper annealed items.
It's my N/S cover that's causing me trouble, it was fine for over a year, then I developed what appears to be two oil leaks, one from the front of the head and the other from the rear. I have replaced the downward pointing stud nut at the front of the head with an Acorn nut and some silicon around the copper washer, I replaced the cam cover gasket, still leaking. I changed the cam gasket again and even refitted the original ribbed cam cover but it's still leaking, I did change the o ring at the rear of the cam too. I have put UV fluid in the oil and I can't see where the front leak is coming from, no tell tale staining around the timing cover. There is staining below the level of the head which is worrying, there is staining from the rear of the cam cover, and staining on the rear of the block deck but I guess this is prob just run off from the cover leak.

Ian
E-type - TBC
1968 Triumph GT6 Mk1

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

chrisfell
Posts: 1597
Joined: Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:52 am
Location: Salisbury
St Lucia

#7

Post by chrisfell » Sun May 08, 2016 7:38 pm

Moeregaard wrote: Also, the copper washers should be replace as well, but make sure you get the proper annealed items.
Or just anneal your own washers. Heat 'till glowing red then let them cool.
Chris '67 S1 2+2

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Topic author
iani
Posts: 520
Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:36 pm
Location: Northamptonshire
Great Britain

#8

Post by iani » Sun May 08, 2016 7:40 pm

chrisfell wrote:
Moeregaard wrote: Also, the copper washers should be replace as well, but make sure you get the proper annealed items.
Or just anneal your own washers. Heat 'till glowing red then let them cool.
I did this, I am not having any leakage from the nuts.
E-type - TBC
1968 Triumph GT6 Mk1

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic