The 'E' Type Forum

Hi. I have to remove the pistons from a series 2 engine and have two questions :-
1. Do i need to remove the reaction plate to lower the sump.
2.Can the pistons be removed and replaced from below or does the head have to be removed.

Thanks James .

1. No. But..
2. No. The head has to come off.

When removing the sump you may need to turn the engine over by hand to set the crank webs in the position with the most clearance - so you can wiggle it out, and yes on virtually all engines the pistons and rods come up and out of the top.

regards Barrie

Chaps, I think I'm trying to do the same thing.

Do I need (as the book says) to remove the front pulley to get the sump off?
I don't want to, but is it possible to get away without?

Presently my No1. & 6 Pistons are near TDC, my head (and cams) are off, and because there is no thread on the end of cam gears (so I couldnt do the half nut thing) , the gear wheels are cable tied to the guides = obviously I could remove the cable ties but then I'd need Team StillInBed to give me a hand.

I think I read, random googling, that with the engine in the perfect position the sump will come off. But maybe that was just a forlorn hope/dream.

thanks.

Hi Matt...have a look here from Jag lovers site may help http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_vi ... 538390&n4=

ooh... thanks a million.

Its blowing a gale out there today, so no chores today, but that looks like a winner. Brilliant!


:D

Good luck Matt, but be aware it looks easier than it might be on another engine because:
a) it was an engine recently rebuilt top to bottom by Dick Maury, which will have included every stud and fixture
b) Dick Maury has done that procedure before and is an expert.

The specific 'gotchas' are the crank seal and the head gasket seal. Neither are insurmountable, but both can catch you out and leak badly if mishandled -assuming the studs come out successfully in the first place.

Thanks Peter.

Current state of play with mine is that the head came off relatively easily. Just heavy because I left the inlet and exhaust manifolds on as "handles". Head gasket was clean, no evidence of blowing through anywhere. New gasket ordered.

At the bottom end the sump is "free" (well, sitting on my trolley jack) but there isnt enough clearance to remove the sump unit, but to get to this point, there were no dramas, everything came undone with ease, there's just a lot of them to undo.

Overall, and I'm sorry to be hijacking someone else's thread I hope they don't mind, its going "OK" . Correct me, but the main pulley sits on a cone, it isnt located in a particular orientation, so if I remove it, I loose reference for the timing marks?
Hence if the sump comes away with that method in the link I'm happy.

I managed without taking the damper off, although it was an S3 XK damper. I didn't realise you were taking the head off - shoild be a relatively easy task then. The sump comes off fairly easily if you undo the stabiliser and front mounts and jack the engine up by the damper.