The 'E' Type Forum

When fitting head gaskets, is it good practice to apply sealant like wellseal to the part of the head gasket that goes round the timing case?

My composite gasket already had a sticky finish but after 2000mls it has randomly started leaking in one place and tightening the bolts hasnt solved it.

Hi Ian ..after all that work what a bummer....but thats Jags for you...havent seen one without a leak...... i do like Wellseal. But it does say to use on all joining surfaces so every gasket i used got it on both sides and each mating surface so thats 4 coats for each....cant help on the head gasket but if it leakes now i would use it belt and braces unless someone comes up with a good reason not to....

Had a similar problem on my FHC with oil dripping down onto the manifolds. I used a new gasket (standard type) with Hylomar Red on both sides which cured it. I think Hylomar Hylotyte Red is a better product for use on classic cars than Blue or Wellseal. Although Hylomar Blue is used by leading car manufacturers and F1 teams their tolerances are way higher than you would ever hope to see on an E-Type. Ditto Wellseal which was developed by Rolls-Royce but still in expectation of tight tolerances on mating surfaces. We need something slightly more forgiving!

New head gasket ordered and will try some Hylomar Red too, thanks for the tip Dave.

mgcjag wrote:Hi Ian ..after all that work what a bummer... if it leakes now i would use it belt and braces unless someone comes up with a good reason not to....

Good reason? Your pants would fall down. :-)

It may not be the gasket. Oil can leak down the threads of the
studs from inside the timing chest.

Pete. The leak appears to be from the gasket but if it was down a thread how would you fix it?
Ian

Alty Ian wrote:Pete. The leak appears to be from the gasket but if it was down a thread how would you fix it?
Ian

Fit a soft copper washer under a flat steel washer under the nut.

I'm sure you're correct and it is coming from the head gasket, but.. it's always worth reconsidering if it could be the cam cover gaskets...

I would tackle a stud leak at source by double-nutting the front studs out and reinsert with thread sealant. The rearward pair that run through the block rather than the timing cover are in blind bosses and therefore could only seep if the gasket were bad.

If you are going to take the head off you could also fill the open upper end of the front stud bosses with good sealant but it should not be necessary. Annealed copper washers are belt and braces and I would just substitute for steel FWIW.

I assume the timing cover upper face is truly flush with the block surface and all the odd length timing cover/waterpump fasteners are in the right place and not bottomed out (which gives the illusion of tightness without clamping properly). As others mentioned, if you have had trouble with non-setting sealants it may be time for something more aggressive such as Evo Stik.

Or you could just wipe the oil away regularly if the leak is merely messy rather than debilitating.

A bit drastic for just an oil leak, but since we about to go to LeMans in the car, I decided to fix it properly, so head off and fitted a new head gasket and this time PROPERLY sealed it using wellseal both sides of the timing case part at the front.



There was no very obvious reason why it leaked, everything was flat but very slight pitting to the block around the rear bolt of the timing case area as shown here



I made the mistake of relying solely on the head gasket without any sealant first time round, it did last over 2000miles before it started to leak from here but was clearly only going to get worse.



Head going back on again after decarbonising everything, surprisingly needing doing after 2000 miles, I just thought it would wipe off but suspect its been running too rich.

I took the opportunity to follow Pete's advice and did all the studs and replaced the cam cover gaskets as really went to town with the wellseal.

Feeling pretty confident this will sort it out.

Ian, great job. At least when doing it now, everything around is still clean and shiny.
Btw, no risk for the cam shafts when lifting/suspending the head like you do?

Ralph
No the head isnt very heavy and the cams are easily strong enough.
It just makes it a lot easier to accurately position the head when putting it back on and avoiding scratching the head surface by the studs which can be all too easily done when struggling on my own. It can be carefully lowered and damage avoided if it went on lob sided. Lucky to have a lifting beam right over the engine bay :D

Ian

Alty Ian wrote:Lucky to have a lifting beam right over the engine bay :D

I'd call it good planning.

Well done on taking the thorough approach. Fingers crossed you're oil-tight now and a clear breather will go a long way to ensuring that.

Should be good now. Enjoy La Belle France, strikes permitting.

Pleased to report my engine is now leak free

Well done Ian....nice to see that you just get on with it

I didnt have much choice Steve, the head gasket leak was significant.
But now I have done it and the cam covers PROPERLY and stopped being an amateur, the garage floor is amazingly clean