Torsion bar reaction plate

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Hi Everyone

I've just removed the reaction plate in preparation for the engine and gearbox removal. The side bolt fixings were extremely tight to the body tub rails and as a result I managed to peel the paint off both sides during removal. Is there any problem with grinding the bolt fixings down a little to allow the plate to be refitted more easily and without paintwork damage?

Cheers

Alan

[mach2andy]

Hi Alan
What I've noticed in some pictures is that the hex headed bolts are replaced with allen headed bolts. Maybe that's to overcome this issue? I live close to a nut and bolt store that would certainly stock what you need. I'll happily pick some up and send them to you. They may well be metric rather than UNF which may bother you?
ATB
Andy

[mgcjag]

Hi Alan.......is it one of the adjustable reaction plates.....i know that some of these have the side bolt fixing tubes protruding slightly from the plate........if its a standard one i would not start cutting it down..it is supposed to be a tight fit and sometimes even needs a pry bar to fit.....think you need some touch up paint... Steve

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Steve

Yes I'd come to the same conclusion myself. I got a visit today from a fellow E-Type owner who also said to leave the plate well alone since the side bolts tighten onto the fixings.
I finally removed the engine and gearbox this afternoon with the aid of my four post lift and a handily placed trolley. This saved me having to remove and store the bonnet which space wise would have been a problem.
The next job is to totally degrease and clean the engine, not looking forward to that at all.

Cheers

Alan

[Hugo]

Steve
The next job is to totally degrease and clean the engine, not looking forward to that at all.
Alan

Wait till you see the amount of sh!t that comes out of the sump, once the baffle is removed. I still have black noxious sludge plastered all over my garage door from when I pressure washed it all ;)

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Hugo

I think I'll be pressure washing the sump outside, after all I don't want to spoil the garage's lovely white walls. I'm hoping to be reunited with the nut and washer I lost when I adjusted the valve clearances two years ago!
Yesterday I thoroughly cleaned the engine and gearbox with a large tub of gunk and an old paint brush. It wasn't half as bad a job as I'd expected. Gunk is wonderful stuff and it really does do what it say's on the tin(tub). The engine now looks almost pristine and the block paint is still intact.



Unfortunately and despite wearing overalls, I ended up reeking of eau-de-gunk and was informed that a change of outfit was required before going out for tea.
Anyway today will be spent fitting a new cat flap and then off to the garage to split the gearbox away from the engine. Hopefully I will finally find out who the culprit is making the strange noises during heavy clutch use. My bet's on the release bearing-any takers.
Plus the temperature today is a tropical 8 degrees slightly better than last Saturday's -4!
Happy Days

Alan

[Series1 Stu]

Hi Alan

Gunk is very effective at degreasing but it smells awful and the smell lingers for ages. That's why I switched to using Jizer. It's just as good but it actually smells quite pleasant.

The Clarke branded parts washer detergent is also very good too and is relatively inexpensive.

A few years ago I was gifted 10 litres of Gunk. It's still sitting unopened on a shelf.

Regards

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Stu

To late gunk is the smell of choice in the garage.
I've now split the gearbox from the engine in the search for my long standing clutch problem.
I now have a couple of questions for the forumites.
First question-does the gearbox input shaft have any play in it. I can move the shaft very noticeably by hand but there's no oil leak into the bellhousing.
Here's a link to a video I've made:-

Question 2:- I think the clutch currently fitted is a 3.8 10 inch clutch. Here's some images, can someone confirm this please.





Thanks in advance

Alan

[andrewh]

hi Alan, what is your long running clutch problem? There is always some movement in the primary shaft, its a matter of degrees . From the photos, I didnt run the video, all look pretty good?

[andrewh]

hi Alan, what is your long running clutch problem? There is always some movement in the primary shaft, its a matter of degrees . From the photos, I didnt run the video, all look pretty good?

I just ran the video, and reckon the movement is far to large.

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Andrew

My thoughts as well.
The clutch problem has been there since I bought the car back in 2011. It only appears under heavy clutch use but doesn't stop you changing gear. It sounds like a rotational screeching noise. If you lay off the clutch for a while it tends to disappear.
I was convinced it was the release bearing but it has hardy any wear on it, similarly the clutch assembly.
I'm fairly sure the clutch is a standard 10" spring clutch for a 3.8 although the box is the later all synchro 4.2 unit. I seem to remember the perceived wisdom was that the later 9.5" diaphragm clutch was superior. Is there any problem with fitting this to a 3.8 flywheel?

Alan

[christopher storey]

I would consult a gearbox specialist about the input shaft sideplay - it may not be as abnormal as at first sight one thinks it is as I discovered with my Rover 2000TC which had that sort of play. A diaphragm 9.5 inch clutch is easy to fit if your flywheel is double drilled which you will be able to see when you take the clutch off . The diaphragm is much lighter and I believe you can find a 10 inch example but they are not as common as the 9.5

[andrewh]

Indeed, I had my flywheel drilled to accept the 9.5 diaphragm clutch . Cannot recall who it was that did the job for me now, but clearly needs to be done by an engineering company . Sent you a PM Alan.

[andrewh]

reference the screeching noise, could it be the spigot bush in the flywheel spinning, quite likely to be the front bearing in the box though I would have thought.

[Series1 Stu]

I agree Andrew. The spigot bush will probably be supporting the input shaft reasonably well and in some way compensating for the wear in the front bearing. That amount of play in the input shaft looks extreme to me and shows just how bad things can get and still operate in a reasonably satisfactory, if noisy, manner. A tribute to the engineering prowess employed in designing these parts, although some may say otherwise.

Front bearing replacement appears to be essential. After that, I would trust the knowledge and skills of a gearbox expert.

Regards

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Gents

Thanks for the info. Andrew I've replied to your PM.
I've also ordered a new spigot bush as well, can't be too careful after all.
The fact it's a rotational noise rules out the thrust bearing so the input shaft or bearing must be the culprit. This is reinforced by the fact that the actual gear change was never affected. I'm now beginning to wonder when the box was actually last looked at. I assumed it was at the same time as the engine rebuild in 2006 but I now have my doubts.As far as I can tell this was when the original Moss box was replaced.
There's no paperwork to show a new gearbox was bought so it's age and condition are indeterminable.
For all these reasons I'm going to have the gearbox refurbished.

One last question- how do you replace the spigot bush?

Thanks

Alan

[Series1 Stu]

Removing the spigot bush is one of the easier jobs to do. Just pump grease into the bore using a grease gun and the hydraulic pressure will push the spigot bearing back out. Dead easy.

Don't forget to soak the new bush in fresh engine oil for at least 24 hours before you install it.

Make sure you have the correct bush first by trial fitting it on the gearbox input shaft.

Regards

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Stu

Thanks for that. Grease gun it is then. Hopefully once all this work is done the problem will be solved and I won't have to fear getting stuck in heavy traffic ever again.
I'm beginning to wonder where this will all end?

Alan

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Well I've now spoken to a gearbox restorer and sent him the video. He didn't think the side to side play was excessive. What he did think was that the flywheel may be the culprit. Apparently if it experiences overheating, the surface can suffer from spiral scoring as the friction plate makes contact. The rotational screeching appears at this point. Coincidentally he has a race prepared Ford Mustang with the same problem. He asked me to send a photo of the flywheel and lo and behold here's what the camera picked up:-



It appears to have spiral scoring all around the flywheel face. Someone might want to correct me on this?
As a result I've decided to take the gearbox, clutch assembly and flywheel to this company who are situated near Loch Lomond.

Alan

[christopher storey]

The good news is that your flywheel appears to be drilled for the 9.5" clutch as well as the 10 inch, so you can fit a diaphragm clutch without difficulty. A light skim looks as though it should clean up the face